Posts Tagged With: Blanca Paloma Seville

Four Gems in Seville

I was about to write about one highlight in particular but I feel generous today. I wont go into details other than on some of the regional specialties that I’ll mention but Andalucia has a rich, vibrant, and very different food scene than the rest of Spain. And seeing even the more refined places keep traditions alive is much appreciated, especially for a tourist. We had all sorts of food experiences in Seville, but these are the four that dazzled our taste buds in ways I can not describe (for the Top Secret fans).

Bar Casa Morales

One of those time warp experiences. Opened in 1850 and still owned by the same family. You feel the history as soon as you walk in. Another entrance to the back room around the corner (that we discovered by accident). Try to arrive when they open if you dont want to wait, and dont be intimidated if you dont speak the language. Try the quality cold cuts, Tortilla, Galician Octopus, but something tells me they can do no wrong. C. García de Vinuesa, 11

Bodeguita Romero

Come for the famous Pringa and stay for the rest of the menu. This is another local legend. Best to arrive when they open or risk long lines. But whatever you do, dont give up on it. While the Pringa (Pork Sandwich) was indeed outstanding, we liked everything else just as much. The Salmorejo (like a tomato soup) is addictive. Try the expertly cooked whole grilled squid. And the immensely flavorful and tender Carillera (pork cheek). C. Harinas, 10

Blanca Paloma

I’ve already written about this jewel in the colorful Triana neighborhood. Its hard but not impossible to reserve but best to show up on the early side (sense a theme here?). For us Americans eating before the locals start flocking in (2pm for lunch, 9pm for dinner) didnt require a great effort. Try anything and everything shrimp including eggplant stuffed with shrimp, mini garlic shrimp burgers, and shrimp a la Plancha. C. San Jacinto, 49

Amara

Saving the best for last. Our top meal in Seville also happened to be the most expensive. Though a €48 tasting menu was still tremendous value for us New Yorkers. Chef/owner Javier Fabo grew up in the Amara neighborhood in San Sebastián, and trained at French Laundry, Gordon Ramsey, and other notables. Tiny Amara is a beautiful homage to the Basque heritage with much emphasis to local traditions.

Great bread is often an indication of things to come and that’s no different here. You may start the journey with a complex Ajoblanco (cold soup) made with coconut, cashews, garlic, pineapple, and other goodies. Then maybe a lovely Croqueta with squid and squid ink, followed by Artichoke in Jerez butter and Iberian Chicharron. Then maybe a 65 degrees egg with mushrooms, truffles, a Basque classic. If there’s a large rice dish with pork (top) as a special, you may want to pounce on it too. C. Zaragoza, 18

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Blanca Paloma {Seville} – Game of Prawns

Once you cross the bridge into the colorful Triana neighborhood in Seville, you will find yourself glaring at the scene of Calle San Jacinto, before joining the scene. Close the street to car and horse traffic and you get a party. Yes, in Seville you need to also keep in mind horses, especially during the April Feria. That means declaring a designated horse poop spotter that leads the pack and warns the rest of the group. Preferably the one that had the least Tinto de Veranos for lunch. It’s V E R A N O! If you are Italophiles like us, you will struggle with the name big time.

Once you reach the end of the pedestrian area, continue walking one more block. I know, I know, youve already seen three churches today, a Game of Thrones site (Alcázar), walked 15 miles, and want to settle at one of the inviting joints on the Calle for another Tinto de Varena. But keep going. Deliciousness awaits.

Blanca Paloma, the restaurant, not the singer, is a Triana institution. Its the only restaurant I encountered in Seville that takes reservations that I couldn’t make. Even my hotel, the excellent El Rey Moro had difficulties getting someone to pick up the phone. But dont despair. Most just show up. And if you show up when they open for lunch or dinner, you can snag a table inside or out.

We were the first team to arrive (Amazing Race fans here) prior to opening. BTW, you can pretty much forget what Google tells you about opening times in Spain. Its more like a probability. Some places can open at that time, but with the kitchen actually opening 30-60 minutes later. Meaning you can just hang out and have a Tinto de Verona. But Blanca Paloma and its kitchen opened as promised at the American lunch time of 12:30. The locals eat lunch after 2pm, and dinner after 9pm. We gave it a shot, but gave up on day one.

Prior to my visit, I got a sense that anything and everything shrimp is the name of the game at BP, and I’m more convinced now. But I’m guessing you cant have many wrongs here no matter what you get. Eggplant stuffed with shrimp – Si please. Probably our top eggplant dish in eggplant loving Andalucia. Mini garlic shrimp burgers, immensely flavorful. And then you get the phenomenal Shrimp a la Plancha that I saw many eating all over Calle San Jacinto.

Crab Croquetas was yet more awesomeness. Unlike other Croquetas we had, there was flavor and texture here. One of the surprising items we’ve seen on various menus is Canelones, like the Spanish Cannelloni. This one stuffed with Iberian pork and Roquefort sauce. Exquisite stuff. The only thing that was average here was the cakes. They ran out of Torrija before opening somehow! Maybe one of the cooks had a tough breakup last night. South of Spain rule of thumb: Order Torrija and/or cheesecake for dessert everywhere.

Blanca Paloma also served one of the better Vermouths of the trip. After trying the Spanish stand-alone Vermouth at Txikito in NYC, I was worried that its not really for me, but throughout my trip I couldnt get enough of it.

After the meal, make sure to check out the market and some of the tile stores around the area. Like Ceramica Triana, and Ceramica Santas Justa y Rufina where the friendly owner speaks excellent English, and lets you break things!

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