This is it. The most important update to date to the legendary, ultra exclusive (according to Harvard) Z-List. This is a list of 50 of my favorite restaurants in New York City. If it looks rather random to some, good. That’s the point. Its simply my way of answering “what should we eat while in NYC” to 99% of those asking. All under $100 per person (hence 99%). The 2018 update features more Italian, Asian, Jewish, and Jews doing Asian:
In:
Pig and Khao, Fiaschetteria “Pistoia”, Ugly Baby, Werkstatt, Faro, Cote, Bombay Bread Bar, Ducks Eatery, 2nd Ave Deli. Congratulations to the winners!
Out:
Bruno pizza – Not much has changed here as far as I know. Just like other options more.
Blue Ribbon Sushi – I still like to bring large groups here, but prefer other options overall.
Root and Bone – During a recent meal the signature chicken paled in comparison to its former glory.
Pok Pok – Just cant bring myself to go these days especially since Ugly Baby opened not too far. A plethora of negative reviews as of late dont help
Distilled – A meh meal last time. Go to Ducks Eatery for the American stuff
Roberta’s – This (along with pok Pok and Root and Bone) might be the shocker here. Still love the pizza. But after a recent meal, you get the sense the pizza is the only reason for the schlep. Faro is the better choice in the hood
Malai marke – Replacing this Indian with Bombay Bread Bar.
Gotham West Market – Many of the vendors changed over the past year. It may be even better today. But its a food court and shouldnt really be on the list
My 30 favorite restaurants in NYC. Still sticking to Brooklyn and Manhattan as these are the two boroughs tourists and I mostly frequent. I live too far from the interesting parts of Queens, and the Bronx. Only rule as usual is $10-100 per person. Meaning nothing that should cost over $100 or under $10 per person. That covers roughly 99% of sit downs in NYC. An affordable list for the people, by the people (Ok, by one person, but you get the idea). Congrats to the winners!
Manhattan
Pure Thai Cookhouse
LumLum may be giving it a run for its money as the top Thai in “Little Bangkok” 9th ave, but I still think Pure Thai is the best one. Its tiny. If you blink you may miss it. I used to go here when they were called Pure Thai Shophouse until two lawyers from Chipotle showed up demanding a name change (long story with a happy ending). There is no curry of every color on this menu like its competitors, but a nice selection of regional specialties like the Ratchaburi with pork, crab and dry handmade noodles made in the “shophouse” like corner inside. The ribs are usually a hit. Papaya salad, jungle curry fried rice, and the always reliable fiery pork with curry paste. And as with any place, if there’s one dessert on the menu, get it. Coconut sticky rice with pumpkin custard is the bomb (and better than LumLum’s version). 766 9th Avenue (51st)
Tia Pol
West Chelsea is known for some of the city’s best Spanish Tapas for some reason, and Tia Pol, one of the originals, is leading the pack. You can probably play Six Degrees of Tia Pol with the number of related Tapas spots in the area and all over town. This is the perfect spot to bring your mother in law as its dark and noisy. Especially if you MIL is into squid ink rice, best I’ve had in this city. Octopus salad, Patatas Bravas, shrimp with garlic are all dependable, and so are the Bocadillos (sandwiches) for lunch. This is as fun as it can get in Little Barcelona (it will catch on) The excellent Salinas is another good one in the area. 205 10th Ave (23rd)
Rezdora
This list is heavy on the Italian for a reason, but if I have to pick just one, it would probably be Rezdora. Its the closest we have to Emilia Romagna cooking, arguably the tastiest of the 20 regions (though Piedmont may want a word). More specifically much of the inspiration comes from Modena, perhaps the most underrated Italian gem as far as food goes. It didnt take long for Rezdora to earn a Michelin Star, so its a bit more popular than when I first recommended it. No point for me to recommend specific dishes here as you cant really go wrong, especially with the pastas. 27 E 20th St (Broadway
Milu
A good and refreshing example of what happens when students of fine dining open a fast-casual place instead of another pricy joint. Essentially an Eleven Madison Park and Shake Sack love child created by ex EMP chefs. The draw is cleverly crafted Asian bowls that includes quality rice, greens and a protein. I sort of settled on the Szechuan style chicken, but everything else I tried except for the duck last time was solid. As far the cheap eats go it doenst get much better than this. 333 Park Ave S (25th)
Anton’s
Another very solid Italian(ish) in a very competitive Italian heavy West Village. When places a such start opening for lunch you know they are doing something right. After being in charge of the kitchens at Maialino and Marta, Nick Anderer finally left Union Square Hospitality Group to open his own place. That means an ingredient driven menu with some focus on nostalgia, like the Bucatini Baczynsky with ham from the ageless Baczynsky meat shop in East Village. Even the simpler dishes like Spinach-ricotta Ravioli are not to be missed due to the high degree of execution and attention to detail. 570 Hudson (W 11th)
L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele
Opening a Neapolitan style pizzeria in the heart of Manhattan these days requires some major Bombolone. We got plenty of great ones there, while not enough in the outer boroughs. But da Michele might very well be the most well rounded Italian of the bunch. Not only you got a fantastic thin, plus size Neapolitan, you got a large comfortable setting, and a full menu that includes proper Arancini, crafty pastas, and even a killer Caesar salad. 2 Bank St (Greenwich)
Song’ e Napule
While da Michele is a family favorite Pizzeria with fantastic pizza,Song’ e Napule might just be the best pizza in the purest form. Always light, bright and fantastic raw material. Although I’ve been singing its praises for years now (ever since a Gelato owner from Milan told me about it), shame on me for only including it on the guide now (2024). The main issue I had before was that the place was too tiny. But not only they opened new locations in UWS and NJ, they expended the original post. The name has nothing to do with songs (“I’m from Naples” in Neapolitan dialect). The only singing you’ll hear is by baby angels while munching on the Diavola. 146 W Houston St (MacDougal)
Jeju Noodle Bar
I hope you listened to me before the Michelin star, higher prices and crowds, although its been fairly popular ever since it opened in 2017 pretty much. They also now require ressies which makes them a bit less accessible. I’m risking having too much Korean or Korean inspired on the list (update: I removed some so no longer true). This may be a reflection on my taste or the current state of NYC dining, but at the same time, they all so very different. Jeju is stylish, playful, while dishing out flavor packed stuff. While the kitchen specializes in Ramyun, the Korean Ramen, its best to order it as part of the Tasting Menu, one of the better values in town (assuming they still offer it). 679 Greenwich St (Christopher)
Balaboosta
The “perfect housewife” is also the perfect marriage between Einat Admony’s flagship and sexier little sister Bar Bolonat. Its like the “Best of” one of America’s most celebrated Israeli chefs. Her range will make you question whether you are eating Middle Eastern, Italian, or Chinese (Yemenite Soup Dumplings, anyone?). Try the Hummus, eggplant, Kebabs, and Short Rib. 611 Hudson St ( 12th/Jane)
Leitao
Probably my favorite discovery in 2024 (so far). This is the most ambitious Portuguese menu I’ve ever seen in NYC. Owner from Braga doing all sorts of wizardry. Even some of the drinks like Porto Tonic are Portuguese inspired. The signature Peri Peri Chicken will dazzle alright. But I wouldnt skip the butterflied seabass, the sensational falling off the bones Porco Preto, and any of the Octopus dishes (The salad especially). Oh and did I mention they also have a Francesinha. If you never had a Francesinha in Porto yet you havent lived life to the fullest. This is the closest you’ll get in NYC. 547 Hudson St (Perry)
Via Carota
This has quickly become a West Village institution and one of the most well rounded Italian in the entire city. No reservations makes a place like this much more accessible. The most I waited for a table is about 20 minutes. The same menu for lunch and dinner is greatly appreciated (and somewhat rare for places like this), and the many daily specials make it even more interesting. Although many of staples like the Cacio e pepe, chicken, and the sick Funghi with smoked Scamorza makes ordering specials here virtually impossible. 51 Grove st (Bleecker)
Foxface Natural
I cant think of another story like Foxface Natural. From a little sandwich shop, the size of a hers and hers closet, to a dare I say inventive Michelin caliber stuff. All the stars essentially aligned when David Santos of EWZ old fave Louro joined the team. I cant even tell you what to try as it probably wont be on the menu when you go. But if you followed Foxface and Louro closely you’d learn to expect the unexpected, except top notch ingredients and highly skilled execution. 189 Avenue A (12th st).
Hearth
An EV staple that’s consistent while constantly evolving. Marco Canora seems to have found the right formula, creating a menu that is essentially for everyone… Meat freaks, health conscious, pescatarians, vegetarians, vegans, accountants, everyone. Some of the old classics like the Rigatoni and Gnocchi, and the impressive Spatchcock chicken are joined by new classics like Cecina and Rabbit. And that wine bible is still perhaps the NYC wine list to beat. Canora is also the founder of Brodo, the attached bone broth kiosk which is the absolute best way to pass the day before Colonoscopy. 403 E 12th St (1st ave)
Claude
A Z-list no brainer. I just follow Josh Pinsky wherever he goes since the Momofuku Nishi days. He called the cops on me a few times, but after a while he got used to it. Claud feels like a Momofuku support club for fans and staff, and like Momofuku, its hard to categorize the place. From the Foie Gras to simply cooked shrimp, to the expertly cooked Halibut, your taste buds will thank you. 90 E 10th St (3rd/4th)
Fiaschetteria “Pistoia”
While so many Italian establishments bill themselves as “Tuscan”, “Roman”, “Venetian”, and eventually get sucked into a multitude of regional offerings, Pistoia only knows how to do one thing; Pistoian food! The family owns a restaurant in Pistoia, near Florence, Tuscany, and for the most part replicating some of the same Tuscan specialties in Alphabet City. Good luck finding Pici and Pappa Con Pomodoro (A Tuscan classic of stale bread in tomato soup) on the same menu anywhere else in NYC. From the staff, to the menu, and wine, its as authentic as it gets in NYC. Now also in West Village 647 E 11th St (Ave C)
Pig and Khao
Probably a top 5 for me. “Top Chef” Leah Cohen quietly continues to dazzle with brilliant Southeast Asian creations, adding dishes seemingly by the day. Classics like the Sizzling Sisig (third generation Sisig with pork head and egg), and Khao Soi are there to stay. But on a recent visit, its the newer stuff like a spicy Thai mushroom salad, Malaysian fried chicken, and corn that left me speechless. 68 Clinton St (Rivington)
Pinch Chinese
Take a break from Armani Exchanging in Soho and relax in this quirky elevated Chinese. Its an offshoot of Din Tai Fung, a popular Taiwanese Dumplings chain. The Dumplings reign supreme alright but dont miss out on the ribs, Dan Dan Noodles, Snow Crab, the sensational whole chicken, and one of the most celebrated Peking Duck’s in the city. Not to mention the great lunch specials (that sweet cauliflower!) A serious looking crew behind the glass (like watching surgeons doing brain surgery) is balanced by humor all over the place. 177 Prince st (Thompson)
Raoul’s
A solid old school French bistro that’s both popular and often forgotten at the same. In some ways similar to Minetta Tavern nearby. Entertaining New Yorkers for over 50 years, and settled into a haute(ish) destination with a great cocktail menu (try the Aviation). Raoul’s burger is widely considered among the best in the city, and their Steak au Poivre might be the undisputed city champ. Its pricy, but large enough to share.
Thai Diner
Uncle Boons 2.0 is now as popular as Uncle Boons 1.0, though much more comfortable and arguably even better. Its hard to pass by without seeing people waiting outside, though if you come off hours (like 4pm) you should be golden. Speaking of golden, try the Disco Fries, Coconut Sundae, egg sandwich, crab fried rice, but honestly you cant go wrong here. The only dish that didnt quite do it for me was the Green Curry with braised beef, but thats just a testament to the rest of the menu. Check out this Thai Diner Survival Guide for more tips. 186 Mott St (Kenmare)
Wayan
Cedric Vongerichten (Jean-Georges’ son) latest in food heaven NoLita is a Tour de Force. Aided by his Indonesian wife Ochi, Wayan dishes out all sorts of complex bold flavors. The menu features Indonesian inspired recipes utilizing French techniques. Try the Satays, Sashimi, Clams, Yellow Chicken, and do not leave without slurping on those sick Lobster Noodles. One of the most exciting new openings of 2019. 20 Spring St
19 Cleveland
My favorite Israeli/Middle Eastern in NYC these days. It’s the perfect bridge between haute and casual. You can still get some killer falafel and hummus (a la sister Nish Nush), but also craftier items like eggplant carpaccio, and fish Shawarma. Even items from other parts of the world, like Spatzl with lobster, fried calamari are solid. Great for brunch and dinner. 19 Cleveland Pl (Kenmare)
Nish Nush
This is another fast-casual quicky, and my favorite Falafel in the city. I used to bike to this place 30 minutes when I worked in Hell’s Kitchen. Thats 30 minutes there, and 40 minutes back after a full tummy. It may not bring you a Ratatouille moment but its probably the closest to a typical Falafeleria (is this a word?) in Tel Aviv. I’m partial to this location rather than the newer one in FiDi. The freshness here including the fluffy pitas is a difference maker. You can also have a very good Sabich, Hummus among many other things. The menu expended over the years making it easier to include Nish Nush on this list. 88 Reade (Church)
Brooklyn
Kashkar Cafe
This is where you get your Uyghur fix! A gem like no other on this list, but you will need to schlep there. Kashkar is located in Brighton Beach, a predominately Russian neighborhood except that its becoming less and less Russian and more Uzbek, Georgian, Kazakh. And its reflected by the dining options all over. Uyghur is an Ethnic group living in Eastern and Central Asia including Uzbekistan where Kashkar’s owners are from, and as far as I know Kashkar is one of the first if not the first Uyghur restaurant in NY if not the US. One of the specialties here is the chewy hand pulled Lagman noodles that you can have as soup or dry with meat and veggie stews (try the dry Geiro Lagman). The Kebabs are also solid 1141 Brighton Beach Ave (Brighton Beach)
Indian Table
It may change any week, but nothing short of a triumphant meal or two can replace Indian Table as my favorite Indian in NYC at the moment. Great food, and unlike so many, a name easy to remember and spell. Two of my favorite words in my vocabulary. The other favorites are Pizza and Brouhaha. IT is Goan at its core, so plenty of Goan and hence Portuguese influences throughout the menu, with the talented Eric McCarthy at the helm. Try the Achari Chicken Tikka, Choris Pao, Punjabi Samosas, and any of the curries, like Chicken Chettinad, Butter Chicken (ask if not on the menu), and the Konkan Railway Mutton. 234 Court St (Cobble Hill)
Werkstatt
Probably our favorite overall restaurant in Brooklyn these days. A few years back I didnt add this eclectic Austrian to the list partly due to the location. But now I realize that its the location that makes it so special. You can pretty much draw a line separating Brooklyn’s gentrified with the not so gentrified half and you’ll find Werkstatt positioned smack in the middle. Pair it with a visit to Historic Prospect South, Prospect Park, or Brooklyn Museum. Some come for the Schnitzel, Goulash, and “Best Pretzel in NYC”, but these days I go for the numerous fish specials like Skate wing. Its a severely underrated neighborhood joint that should be the envy of every neighborhood. 509 Coney Island Ave (Flatbush)
Claro
Although Oaxacan by nature, Claro is the closest you’ll get to the full service Mexico City experience in NYC. Its on the higher end, where you can easily surpass the over $100 pp. But perhaps not high enough for Michelin which stripped it from its star. Perhaps the unassuming casual environment had something to do with it. Black Bass with green mole, topped with smoked Trout roe, Mole Negro, and Arroz con Leche are some of the highlights. Although the menu constantly changes. 284 3rd Ave (Gowanus)
Cotra
Around the corner of the previously mentioned (as of this writing) Claro, is another winner, albeit a lot less known and easier to reserve. Cotra is a newish (2023) Izakaya dishing out all sorts of addictive awesomeness, like the aptly named Addictive Cabbage. But you cant really go wrong with any of the smaller plates like the Mochiko Chicken and Spicy Tuna on Crispy Rice. Though it may be tough to pass on the Yakiniku Ribeye Steak. 451 Carroll St (Gowanus)
Hometown BBQ
There was a time when finding good BBQ in the city was as difficult as watching a constipated baby. Those days are officially gone. Those that still say that need to come out of the their shell, and go straight to Red Hook. It took me a while to warm up to Hometown, but now I cant get enough of it. Hometown’s quick and growing fame reached a point of a major destination stop and ‘Franklin-esque’ weekend lines. The spare ribs, and the legendary brisket are unmatched. But what sets Hometown apart is the craftiness and execution of the normally secondary items like the super moist chicken, and the addictive sausage. 454 Van Brunt St (Red Hook)
Chuan Tian Xia
It’s beyond time I add our favorite Chinese in Brooklyn, and our traditional Xmas meal. We have a number of favorites in NYC’s largest Chinatown, but this is the place where we feel most at home. Not a case where every dish we ever tried was a slam dunk, but we settled on our favorites while adding new ones from time to time (I’m looking at you Cumin Lamb). Try the String Beans, Cauliflower, Hot and spicy fish fillet, Kung Pao chicken. 5502 7th Ave (Sunset Park)
Lilia
It took me 4 weeks to train my Google to stop showing me results for Ilili (Gourmet Lebanese) whenever I searched for Lilia. Missy Robbins, Barack Obama’s favorite chef in Chicago (when he was a senator) dishes out freakishly good pastas like the Cacio e Perfect Malfadini and Agnolotti. The vegetables all over the app section featuring the best of Union Square Market. Great simple meat dishes, and all sorts of “Little Fish” and “Big Fish” hugging the menu. She must be a PJ Harvey fan. 567 Union Ave (Williamsburg)
And starving. Like, literally starving to death. There was a point where I realized that the safest time to read Aynat’s (Trip Advisor handle) daily accounts of her NY adventure is between 6 and 6:45, before my stomach wakes up from its beauty rest. This was not Aynat’s first trip to NYC, and she already logged countless of great meals under her belt. But this time it became apparent after day two (out of 27) that included a marathon meal at Ko (the best marathon there is), that Aynat picked up her game to almost unreachable levels. From my vantage point (living room, transferring to kitchen soon) this is the Michael Jordan of trip reports. The basketball player, not the chef. Although the chef is pretty darn good too (miss Rosemary’s in Vegas dearly).
I read trip reports on various boards like Chowhound and Trip Advisor on occasion, and it usually doesn’t take long to get a sense of the due diligence involved. Aynat on the other hand, essentially has redefined food research, and is probably already planning her next trip to NYC (best medicine to post vacation blues.. Alcohol. Second best.. rebook). This was 27 days of eating bliss and blissful eating. After her trip was over, I figured it would be criminal not to write something about this on EWZ, but the challenge was how. So I asked Aynat to compile a list of her favorite dishes of the trip and here are the results. Top 20 dishes (comments are mine) with pictures whenever I could find them
Momofuku Ko – Chef’s Multi Course Tasting Menu. Its impossible to pick one dish from this 18 dish ecstasy. Its like asking Evander Holyfield which Illegitimate child is his favorite. Perhaps the best eating experience NYC has to offer at the momeny
Bowery Meat Company – Bowery Steak with Salsa Verde, Whipped Potato. The ribeye cap, arguably the cows most delicious part is rolled into this hockey puck of dreams. One of the most delicious steaks I ever ate. Aynat agrees.
Marta – Carbonara Pizza with Potato, Guanciale, Black Pepper and Egg. I’ve watched Nick Anderer try to perfect this Roman beaut over the first few months, until he settled on arguably the best white pie NY has to offer. Aynat also liked the Rabbit meatballs very much.
Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar & Bistro – Oxtail Fried Rice with daikon, Shiitake & Bone marrow. Aynat hesitated at first with this one. “Why is he suggesting Fried Rice, in a hotel no less.” Easily made the top dishes mark, along with the brilliantly simple sautéed squid (Ika shuga)
The Marshal – Wood Oven Roasted Meatloaf stuffed with Mozzarella, Squash Carrots and Kale. Sometimes a man just wants to eat meatloaf. Apparently same rules apply for women. One of Hell’s Kitchen’s hidden gems, dishing out proper farm to belly American classics.
Annisa – Barbecue Squid with Thai Basil and Fresh Peanuts (top picture). Aynat asked me about some of my favorite squid/octopus dishes in town and I directed her to one of Anita Lo’s best sellers. Needless to say she liked it.
Ivan Ramen – Pork Meatballs with Buttermilk Dressing, Bulldog Sauce, Bonito. Perhaps it’s the hypnotizing dancing bonito flakes, the tangy Bulldog sauce, or those tender juicy meatballs. Whatever that is, hope this LES Ivan branch keeps it on the menu for a while.
Alta – Shrimp and Chorizo Skewer with Avocado, Garlic and Sherry Vinegar. Another winner at this old tapas staple. Aynat also praised the Brussel Sprouts with apple, Creme Fraiche and pistachios. The dish that essentially made us start cook Brussel sprouts. And many chefs around town followed.
Balaboosta – Crispy Cauliflower With Lemon, Currants and Pine Nuts. It’s not an Israeli meal without a cauliflower dish. (Hmmm, I knew something was missing from my meal in LA last night). This is one Balaboosta must
Nougatine at Jean Georges – Fried Calamari with Basil Salt and Citrus Chilli Dip. Never been to Nougatine so never had it. But I can just taste it…
Root and Bone – Crispy Free Range Fried Chicken, Tea Brined and Lemon Dusted. Perhaps the NYC fried chicken to beat, along with Ma Peche’s Habanero infused bird. The brine and the magic dusting gives it a deeper, lasting flavor. Aynat also really admired the Charred Asparagus with Fire Roasted Tomatoes and Crunchy Peanuts. And talking about deeper and lasting, Root and Bone apparently means something else entirely down under (where half of the owners are from. Coincidence?)
Santina – Guanciale e Pepe. Aynat also hit some of the new kids on the block, and enjoyed Santina’s Cecina as well. I’ve personally been to Santina three times now, so ye.. I’m a fan too.
Rounding the top 20…
The NoMad Restaurant – Suckling Pig with Ramps, Potatoes and Salsa Verde. Been twice, never had it
ABC Cocina – Spring Pea Guacamole with Warm Tortillas
Timna -Lamb Saddle with Persian Lemon Dust, Black Garlic Mousse, English Pea Purée. Along with Fried Cauliflower (doh!) with Homemade Labane, Curried Tahini and Sumac. Top of my to do list
Inti – Ceviche Mixto. Love this dish. They make great ceviche here
Mercato – Gnocchi in Beef and Pork Ragu. Havent had this in a while and got tomorrow free. m..u..s..t r..e..s..i..s..t…
Kati Roll Company – Unda chicken roll. Never had it.
Gazala’s – Sun dried tomato Bourekas with Hummus, salad and olives. Still best hummus in town
Ample Hills Creamery – Salted Crack Caramel. Seriously addictive ice cream (like seriously!) . Aynat also gives major props to the Sullivan Street Bakery Bomboloni and Amorino gelato.
So there you have it. There were many other great dishes Aynat enjoyed in this one, but these are the highlights. This is a great starting point for those researching their next trip. Thanks Aynat for this glorious report
Time to update this oldie but goodie. Its only been 6 years, though I’ve been doing surprise inspections on and off during that time. Why did it take me so long you may ask. Its very simple. Not much has changed. Same owners, same menu, same lentil dip they give you at the beginning of each meal, same layout I know like the back of my hand, same everything. In a city where chefs constantly feel the need to reinvent themselves every now and then, Mercato is pretty much the same its been since it opened a decade ago. BTW, does anyone really know the back of their hand well?
The location of Mercato has a lot to do with why it stays the same. In that corner of Hell’s Kitchen, they get their fare share of tourists, and theater goers, which also enables them to stay open throughout the day while many siesta-ing. But they are just far enough from the midtown hustle and bustle, and the bulk of bridge and tunnelers seeking a different kind of red sauce. Safe to say its a Hell’s Kitchen staple that stuck to its niche as a no frills Trattoria celebrating the Italian south, Puglia, Sardegna and Sicily especially.
Like with so many such Italian joints in the city, pasta here reigns supreme. The Trenette is always reliable as a light, nutty alternative to the Spaghetti al Pomodoro. I’m not as in love with it as I used to, but I still order it when I’m sharing for its interest factor. If you want something more robust, the homemade Malloreddus, tiny but potent Sardinian Cavatelli with wild boar ragu is a Mercato classic and a safe bet. Same with the Gnocchi, though I didnt have it in some time now.
Here you want to pay special attention to the specials. The Orecchiette with sausage and Maitake (Hen of the Woods) last time was possibly the most satisfying special I’ve had here. The odd inclusion of crispy dried sweet peppers didnt interfere with the joy. Dido for the slow roasted juicy pork shank. The only thing I wouldnt order again is the Tagliata (sliced steak) which rarely resembles the motherland version in most places anyway. The Semifreddo however, you just want to kiss and say “I knew it was you Semifreddo”. Or you can just eat it with a spoon like we did.
January 31, 2014 post:
I was never so eager to write a “Next Post” after that last one. But work, and a vigorous Sexual Harassment training were in the way.
What do Hell’s Kitchen, Staten Island, and Brooklyn have in common? A mafia filled history, and a lot of mediocre Italian food. Coincidentally, these are the 3 places I spend the most time in due to work and marriage constraints. But as Bob Dylan taught us “Times They are a-Changin” That’s right, changin without a “g” at the end. In the case of Hell’s Kitchen, there’s still a lot of mediocre Italian food to entertain the theater goers. But the last few years a few diamond in the rough spots emerged, biggest being Mercato on 9th and 39th.
Avid followers of EWZ (both of them) already know all about this Hell’s Kitchen treasure. Mercato (means Market in Italian) is as authentic as it gets in NYC. Here’s why…
1) Owners from Puglia, chef from day one is Sardinian, and every waiter is Italian. Yes, every single one. And if I may say, all being Italian, fairly good looking bunch as well. I dont go here for this particular reason, but perhaps a sense of belonging!
2) The menu is jam packed with Sardinian, Sicilian, Pugliese specialties (more on that later)
3) Italians love coming here. I’ve heard Italian spoken here by diners on every single visit.
4) Inside it just feels like a rustic Trattoria in Florence (and Ive been to plenty of those)
I’ve been to Mercato about 10 times since my first time 6 months ago. I’ve taken friends, co-workers, family, family of co-workers (not an affair, just fooling around!) and I feel very comfortable recommending it on the boards. There’s nothing really outrageous about the food. Its simple, honest, and true to the regions of South Italy. While there are all sorts of goodies on the menu I come here primarily for the Primis (pasta/gnocchi)…
Spaghetti with fresh tomatoes, garlic & basil – Like on a first date, before meeting the parents and answering “am I fat” questions 20 years later, you may want to take the core product for a spin. This is a very passable basic Spaghetti dish with profound freshness all around. As with many of the dishes on the menu, everything is homemade
Homemade Trenette with almonds, garlic, tomato and basil (top picture) – Possibly my favorite pasta here. Simple, intense flavors, and at $12 the best price/taste ratio. You will simply not find this anywhere else
Gnocchi in beef and pork ragu – Another one of my favorites. The gnocchi are wonderfully chewy, pillowy, and on the small side. It looks like its swimming in sauce but its firm enough to soak in just the right amount of the meat ragu. And what meat ragu it is!
Orecchiette pasta with broccoli rabe, anchovies, bread crumbs, garlic and olive oil – A Pugliesi without an Orecchiette dish is like Roman without Carbonara. Its very simple, if you like anchovies get it. If you dont, dont.
Fave E Cicoria – Its the Pugliesi Hummus. Popular especially in the winter months. Purée of fava beans, chicory, and Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Deliciously salty and quite good
Pay special attention to the pasta specials here. Yesterday I had a terrific Cavatelli with spicy short rib ragu. Same goes for the Fusilli (below) with slow braised pork ragu I’ve enjoyed in the past
The one dish I really want to try but always get disrupted by a special is the Malloreddus which is homemade Sardinian cavatelli-like “Gnocchetti” with braised wild boar ragu
I’ve had plenty of other dishes here like the Octopus, Sardines, Tagliata (sliced steak), but chose to highlight the selective ones
Mercato
352 West 39th st (9th)
Rating: 2 Zs (out of 4)
Stars range from Good to Exceptional. Simple as that
Recommended Dishes: Spaghetti, Trenette, Malloreddus, Gnocchi, Fave E Cicoria, Semifreddo, Pasta Specials
Another year, another amazing eating year in the city of New York. Keeping up with all the new and excitement here is like keeping up with the Kardashians. But 2013 proved to be one heck of a year, probably the best ever. And if there’s ever a post on EWZ that could be helpful to visitors or locals seeking great chow in NYC, this is IT!
Ma Peche – Fried Chicken (with a side of the Brussels Sprouts). I’ll start with the last great dish. Haute Fried Chicken doesnt get any better than this. Habanero, coriander, black pepper and other spices used to create this fried pieces of awesomeness. Its a large shareable whole chicken at $48, but for lunch you can get half for $24 which can still feed an Armanian village, or 2 Americans. And the amazing Brussels Sprouts dish are worthy of their own spot here.
Ivan Ramen Slurp Shop– Smoked Whitefish Donburi. With salmon roe, sweet soy dashi, cucumber, scallion over rice. Need I say more? I probably should. Tell me if you heard this story before. A Jewish man from Long Island opens a Ramen shop in Tokyo which becomes critically acclaimed, then comes back to NYC to open a Ramen shop in the New Gotham West Market in Hell’s Kitchen. Sounds familiar? The Donburi is a nice clash of the 2 cultures (Japan meets Jew)
Momofuku Ssam Bar – Spicy Sausages & Rice Cakes. Second Momofuku mention already (Ma Peche is the first) This dish is insane. Plenty of heat and plenty of joy. Its a beautiful medley of ground sausage, Chinese broccoli, Sichuan peppercorn, and the awesome rice cakes which were essentially Korean Gnocchi made from rice flour. Puts the Mssion Chinese rice cakes to shame. Photo courtesy of Never Too Sweet
Betony – Short Ribs. A revelation! Tender, full of flavor goodness. It takes 3 days to make them we were told. We told the waitress that we cant stay that long, but we quickly understood the meaning.
Maialino – Tonnarelli Cacio e Pepe. Its so simple, it shouldnt be here. But along with the carbonara perhaps my favorite dish at one of my favorite Italian spots in the city. Perfectly creamy, peppery, and addictive. Having it sit there among the other pastas on the table is like visiting the bunny ranch after trying out all the bunnies, and constantly picking your favorite.
The NoMad – The Chicken. This is a no brainer, and a top dish nominee even before it reached our table. Once you get over the facts that a) is costs $78 (for 2) and b) its freakin chicken, you will enjoy this one no doubt. Perfectly crispy skin, moist juicy white meat, along with some foie gras and black truffles (all cooked) nicely tucked beneath the skin. Each bite of that combination together was a Tour de Force. But that’s not all. Add a glorious plate of the dark meat with garlic espuma (foamy light garlic goodness) in the middle to share.
Ippudo – Akamaru Modern (with egg). “Welcom”, “Goodbye”, “Aim Well”? I have no idea what they are screaming in Japanese at Ippudo every time someone arrives or goes to the bathroom. All I know is that this is my favorite dish here. Rich, complex pork broth, along with hefty pieces of pork belly. Add the egg and spicy miso paste for even richer flavors
Costata – The Costata. Perhaps the dish of the year. A mammoth 44oz $120 very shareable Tomahawk Ribeye cooked to perfection. Basted ever so beautifully with a rosemary brush, this beast was a feast for all senses. Add some Black truffle butter, fries and asparagus, but good luck remembering the sides in between bites of perhaps the best steak in town
Nish Nush – Falafel. I know Falafel. I grew up with falafel. My car runs on falafel (its the trade-in period while waiting for the new car so dont want to use the real thing). This is good falafel. Fresh pita from the oven, and free (great) hummus can only help
Kashkar Cafe – Geiro Lagman. Little Asia in little Odessa (Brighton Beach) and perhaps the only Uyghur spot in town. I’ve had this dish 3 times in the last 8 months. Nice and chewy hand pulled noodles with lamb, veggies, cumin, garlic, other spices and herbs make up this highly palatable dish.
Special mentions:
Malai Marke – Chicken Xacuti (and Bindi Sasuralwali)
Sakagura – Maguro Tartar
Pure Thai – Wok Curry Paste with Pork
Mercato – Trenette
Jungsik – The rice dish that comes for free for b-day boy 😉
Louro – Octopus Bolognese (tie with monkfish)
Mission Chinese – Kung Pao Pastrami
Like with so many such Italian joints in the city, pasta here reigns supreme. The Trenette is always reliable as a light, nutty alternative to the Spaghetti al Pomodoro. I’m not as in love with it as I used to, but I still order it when I’m sharing for its interest factor. If you want something more robust, the homemade Malloreddus, tiny but potent Sardinian Cavatelli with wild boar ragu is a Mercato classic and a safe bet. Same with the Gnocchi, though I didnt have it in some time now.
Eating With Ziggy 