A day before the trip, we rewatched an old episode of Bourdain in San Sebastián. In the episode, a local was trying to explain the Spanish Basque fascination with quality. She said, like a Basque Pelota player inspecting the ball left and right to make sure its top quality, they have a similar obsession with food ingredients. Its a different breed. And that’s why San Sebastián is considered the culinary capital of the world.
Eating bad in San Sebastián I imagine is hard to do. Maybe in the old town there’s some touristy joints that can get away with it, but I doubt many if any exist. The competition is just too intense. And the embarrassment of riches in San Sebastián attracts a certain kind of tourist. Sure, in the age of social media, there’s the FOMO affect with the young traveler. But generally, if you are the “eat to live” instead of “live to eat” kind, San Sebastián wont be on your bucket list. There’s really not a whole lot to see and do here, except eat.
A Peruvian couple with a healthy culinary resume opened Artean Barra Abierta in the Gros neighborhood in San Sebastian at the end of 2023. It replaced a bar, and still looks like one with its 12 bar seats as your only options. Smart decor, and very intimate. At least until you meet your new friends from Miami and Canada, and its now a party.
Pound for pound this was the best meal of the trip other than the three Michelin epic we had a coupe of days later. Artean delivered bigger flavors and was more enjoyable than every other place including the Michelin one stars we enjoyed in France. It was also a tremendous value for a meal of this caliber. For the time being at least, its Michelin quality with Bib Gourmand prices.
The food rundown:
Scallop Gildas – With the usual Gilda ingredients except raw scallops instead of anchovies, plus roasted tomatoes, pine nuts, and Parmigiano Reggiano. Even though the delicate scallops were mostly lost in the shuffle, this was absolutely delicious.
Bun – Asian style, steamed in a Bamboo steamer. Filled with Iberian pork, kimchi mayonnaise and pickled beetroot. Outstanding. Just shows you the range of the couple. Its much more than a Peruvian/Basque mashup as some claim. Plenty of Italian and Asian influence as well
Smoked Steak Tartare – Comes with droplets of Egg yolk sauce and Idiazabal Cheese. Holly smokes this was good. Some of the best I’ve had in recent memory. Hand chopped, well balanced and the smokiness took it to another level.
Rice paella with duck breast – With mushrooms and aioli. This is baby angels singing stuff. Fantastic texture and lasting flavors throughout, especially if you appreciate a good Socarrat
Grilled Sirloin – Mushroom puré, egg yolk sauce and coffee foam. A clinic in how to cook the perfect beef. And once you add the rest of the ingredients, pure joy with every morsel.
Hazelnut and chocolate dessert – Very good. Served inside a coffee bean shaped pod. Simple all considering, but still felt proper.
Book your flight today before it gets a star.
Eating With Ziggy 