I was about to write about one highlight in particular but I feel generous today. I wont go into details other than on some of the regional specialties that I’ll mention but Andalucia has a rich, vibrant, and very different food scene than the rest of Spain. And seeing even the more refined places keep traditions alive is much appreciated, especially for a tourist. We had all sorts of food experiences in Seville, but these are the four that dazzled our taste buds in ways I can not describe (for the Top Secret fans).
Bar Casa Morales
One of those time warp experiences. Opened in 1850 and still owned by the same family. You feel the history as soon as you walk in. Another entrance to the back room around the corner (that we discovered by accident). Try to arrive when they open if you dont want to wait, and dont be intimidated if you dont speak the language. Try the quality cold cuts, Tortilla, Galician Octopus, but something tells me they can do no wrong. C. García de Vinuesa, 11
Bodeguita Romero
Come for the famous Pringa and stay for the rest of the menu. This is another local legend. Best to arrive when they open or risk long lines. But whatever you do, dont give up on it. While the Pringa (Pork Sandwich) was indeed outstanding, we liked everything else just as much. The Salmorejo (like a tomato soup) is addictive. Try the expertly cooked whole grilled squid. And the immensely flavorful and tender Carillera (pork cheek). C. Harinas, 10
Blanca Paloma
I’ve already written about this jewel in the colorful Triana neighborhood. Its hard but not impossible to reserve but best to show up on the early side (sense a theme here?). For us Americans eating before the locals start flocking in (2pm for lunch, 9pm for dinner) didnt require a great effort. Try anything and everything shrimp including eggplant stuffed with shrimp, mini garlic shrimp burgers, and shrimp a la Plancha. C. San Jacinto, 49
Amara
Saving the best for last. Our top meal in Seville also happened to be the most expensive. Though a €48 tasting menu was still tremendous value for us New Yorkers. Chef/owner Javier Fabo grew up in the Amara neighborhood in San Sebastián, and trained at French Laundry, Gordon Ramsey, and other notables. Tiny Amara is a beautiful homage to the Basque heritage with much emphasis to local traditions.
Great bread is often an indication of things to come and that’s no different here. You may start the journey with a complex Ajoblanco (cold soup) made with coconut, cashews, garlic, pineapple, and other goodies. Then maybe a lovely Croqueta with squid and squid ink, followed by Artichoke in Jerez butter and Iberian Chicharron. Then maybe a 65 degrees egg with mushrooms, truffles, a Basque classic. If there’s a large rice dish with pork (top) as a special, you may want to pounce on it too. C. Zaragoza, 18
Eating With Ziggy 