Most people come to Alcobaca simply for the purpose of seeing the imposing monastery. That’s if they come at all. The majority skip altogether in favor of the arguably grander Batalha, 20 km north. Imagine building something this special, only to be outstaged by jaw dropping gothicness a mule ride away. But Alcobaca monastery is no slouch. It reminds me of a falafel place in Haifa, Israel that many believe is the best in the country. It says so right on the sign – “Best Falafel in the Country”. But right across the street there’s another falafel place, and it’s sign says “Best in the Neighborhood”.
Sometimes you need to look at the bigger picture. With Portugal’s popularity these days, Batalha requires careful planning to avoid the tour buses. And there’s not a whole lot to do in “downtown Batalha”. You come, get inspired, and leave quicker than you arrived. Alcobaca on the other hand also boasts an attractive town, with a couple of famous “residents”, Ines and Pedro. You may want to learn about their tragic story before your visit to make it more interesting. You think you have marriage issues?
In comparison to the rest of the country, Alcobaca, both the monastery and town is shockingly empty. Portugal, while very popular these days as a destination, is still at the early to middle innings of the “age of discovery” (see what I did there?). Fascinating places like Monsaraz, Castelo de Davide, Alcobaca, and even Tomar are not usually on the tourist routes like Obidos, Algarve and the rest of them.
The monastery and the town should be enough reason. But if you need more, there’s yet another Origens here, and its another good one. As I said before, it requires just the kind of “chutzpah” and/or pride to call your place as such. I laid out the reasoning for the theory after another splendid meal at another, totally unrelated Origens in Evora.
We knew this is going to be one of those meals when we were greeted with port and tonic, which essentially established our drinking foundation for the rest of the trip. A lavish, local Flor do Valle cow’s milk cheese, and a pleasantly creamy vegetable soup got the juices going. Octopus with rice, nicely enhanced by fresh herbs was one of the better renditions of the trip.
Just close enough to Nazaré and the sea meant a fresh whole Dourade which became the group fave. But what truly stood apart for me was a Mirandesa steak, a local popular breed from the north. Beautiful, tender, clean, and incredibly flavorful. Just comes with salt on the side, and cooked to med-rare perfection. Ended with a traditional meringue cake
From the warm service, the flavors, and even the murals, this was another top meal of the trip nominee. Origens is a good reason to stick around for a few more hours in beautiful Alcobaca. The town compact size compliments the massiveness of the monastery nicely. It’s even, dare I say, romantic. You hear that? That’s Mrs Z’s morning laugh.
Eating With Ziggy 