New York City

Laser Wolf – Winner on the Roof

Lazar Wolfe, the butcher from Fiddler on the Roof, will need to settle for a rooftop restaurant in NYC to be named after him after being rejected by Tevye’s daughter Tzeitel. Not enough? Ok, throw in another restaurant in Philly, 12 goats, and a concept that not everyone understands.

Michael Solomonov is arguably the country’s most renowned Israeli chef (Alon Shaya fans might have a say). His empire in Philly includes Zahav, Dizengoff and Laser Wolf among other places. Dizengoff, the Humuseria still going strong in Philly after an unsuccessful run in NYC’s Chelsea Market. I remember sitting in Chelsea Market having a long conversation with Michael, thinking what can possibly go wrong. Turns out its location, location, location. Tourists simply dont care much for Hummus.

What followed was another concept, and what looks like a more successful NYC run. The concept might sound simple, but in the restaurant industry nothing is. Choose an item from the grill menu and they’ll take care of the rest. That includes 10 salatim, the world famous Hummus and pita, and ice cream. So say, the Chicken Shishlik (fancy for kebab) and its shocking sticker price of $50 includes all the other stuff, valued at $26 on their own.

Easy, schmeasy, no? I think even Lazar the butcher would appreciate a scheme like this where everyone wins including our precious brain cells. They really need to do a study on how much time men spend thinking about what to order. We think about tomorrow’s dinner after breakfast yesterday, and if its a restaurant we know the menu by heart hours, sometimes days prior to the meal.

Laser Wolf

Yet so many reviewers are confused and/or totally miss the mark. “You are paying for the views”, “5 meatballs for $55?”, and my favorite, “the chef should be very transparent that shishlik and koobideh are Iranian foods, not Israeli”. People are not only confused about Israeli food, but prices in NYC. Expect to pay the average for a NYC full service meal, $80-100 pp.

My only gripe is that the Salatim didnt have the same oomph as the original Philly location. The two eggplant dishes, roasted Bulgarian style, and Babaganoush were the standouts, though the only thing we ordered more (beside the Hummus) were the pickles. The fact that you can taste a bunch of small plates and order more (free of charge) of your favorites is a feature in itself.

The best part of that feature is the ability to ask for more pita and Hummus, some of the best in the business. Similar to Alon Shaya’s Safta and Saba (Denver, NOLA), it’s some serious chickpea magic. Dizengoff and its Hummus menu that includes an array of toppings would thrive in more local, health conscious environments like Tribeca, East and West Village.

As for the grill items, this time we tasted the newish multi-meat Keves Kebab, a respectable Mititei (Romanian style kebab) like meatballs. And a fine Steak Shishlik that didnt lack texture nor flavor. The Dorade, even though slightly overcooked was a table favorite, and a decent size. There’s even a punchy Date-Harissa Wings that comes with Tehina Ranch from the a la carte menu. Getting that instead of a grill item means adding an order of Hummus + Salatim, unless you are eating solo and/or skip the salads altogether.

If you have a choice go to the cheaper and arguably better Philly location. But Laser Wolf at the top of the Hoxton hotel in Williamsburg is a sound option for middle eastern fair in NYC. And the views of the Manhattan skyline are not too shabby either.

Laser Wolf
97 Wythe Ave (Brooklyn)
Recommended Dishes: Hummus + Slalatim, chicken liver Pate, wings, Steak Shishlik, Keves, Dorade

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Cotra – An Izakaya Sensation in Gowanus

June 30, 2025 Update: The more I try, the better this place gets. The north Brooklyn food scene is very strong at the moment, and Cotra is quickly becoming a top 5, if not top 3 for us and friends. Talking of which, it’s best to come here with friends, preferably not picky, in order to try more. Great bar scene all around the neighborhood for a pre/post meal drink. Though my favorite discovery this time was a Spanish market called Mercado Central on the corner of Third and Union. A nice selection of tinned seafood and other items, some hard to get.

The Addictive Cabbage is still that, but it will feel less so once you try the brilliant Sun Dried Tomato Edamame, and/or Spicy Cucumber. Something happened to the Okonomi Fried Potato that made me appreciate it much more this time. Maybe the crispiness, the sauce combination, or maybe hypnosis by the dazzling Bonito Flakes. I can look at them all day.

The Mochiko Chicken is still fabulous. The steak is better to share just between two, so I skipped this time. The Tonkatsu (fried pork cutlet) is solid, but a little basic when compared to the rest. Perhaps the best discovery this time was a butterflied whole Branzino with the bones removed. Beautifully cooked, and a nice combination of complimentary items. As for drinks, try the Suigei Tokubetsu Junmai (Drunken Whale) Sake.

Aug 2, 2024 Post:

I’ll make this one short and sweet. This Izakaya in the very up and coming Gowanus is excellent. One of those meals where every aspect of the experience satisfied. From the ease of making reservations (a luxury in NYC), to the food, and prices. Paying $150 for two for a full service meal with my usual overordering these days is like going retro 2018. Happy hour prices on a Saturday night helped, but the menu is still fairly priced for NYC.

Opened just over a year ago by three friends with extensive cooking experience. A typical Izakaya menu with sprinkles of innovation and the execution of a high end French/Japanese. Its the type of fun extensive menu where I want to try every single dish. Being a “tapas bar” means you can try a bunch of small dishes, or mix in one or two large ones. The most expensive item at the moment is the Ribeye ($36). Have you seen the prices of high end meats in restaurants all over the city these days?

I have said it before and I will say it again. Gowanus is transforming into a force to be reckoned with. In neighborhoods as such you need to differentiate yourself in order to attract outsiders and become a destination spot. Its incredibly tough to simply rely on immediate area locals. “Lets go walk around in the Gowanus” is something almost no one ever said here. And if they did then the most likely reply would be “what is that”.

The food rundown…

Addictive Cabbage – True to the name. Yamitsuki (“addictive”) izakaya-style cabbage. Crispy, nicely dressed. It grows on you quickly, and tastes even better with other dishes like the fried chicken. Before you know it, you really cant stop eating it.

Fried Potatoes – With Bonito Flakes and sweet Okonomi sauce. A serviceable dish. Some may be surprised at the sweetness but it works.

Mochiko Chicken – Just what you would expect even in high end Japanese. Expertly cooked fried chicken with Harissa Mayo. Light batter, supremely tender, and juicy.

Spicy Tuna on Crispy Rice – Very solid. Even though I was hoping for for better tuna/rice ratio there was plenty of flavor here, and I would order again.

Yakiniku Ribeye Steak – Perfectly cooked, well marbled Ribeye with Miso Scallion Butter (a bit chunky but fine). They keep rotating their steak offerings but I imagine they cant do much wrong with any of them.

Mrs Z wanted ice cream in Dumbo and my immediate thought was the excellent Miso Cherry from OddFellows. So no dessert sampling here, but hopefully this is the start of another beautiful relationship. Go!

Cotra
451 Carroll St (Brooklyn)
Recommended Dishes: Addictive Cabbage, Mochiko Chicken, Spicy Tuna on Crispy Rice, Potatoes, Yakiniku Ribeye Steak, Branzino, Sun Dried Tomato Edamame, Spicy Cucumber

Categories: Brooklyn, New York City | Tags: , , , , | 1 Comment

The Ultimate Chinatown Food Tour

Since I still get food tour requests four years after quitting touring, I’ve been on a mission to find a solid alternative. A local who possesses the kind of knowledge, energy, and passion for NYC food, especially street food. Someone who will take you to places even locals dont get a chance to discover. A guide with an actual sense of humor, not the kind of dad jokes I shared with many of you.

I’m tempted to write “I’m still looking”, but that would be just another ego inspired bad dad joke. The fact of the matter is the entire Ziggy clan, including the food snubs, thoroughly enjoyed the Ultimate Chinatown Food Tour with Scott the other day. And in case you are wondering right off the bat, yes I paid for it.

Food tours is a subject near and dear to my heart. The reason I got into this business to begin with was that the offerings 10 year ago were quite poor, and I wanted to do something no one else did. Judging by the fact that I reached #4 on Trip Advisor (out of 250 experiences), I’d say it succeeded, but the market got saturated and commercial in a hurry. Even foreign based entities like Spain’s Devour are now offering tours in NYC.

As a guide, and one that took many food tours around the world (including Devour in Spain), I will share with you the formula. Food tours are half food, half location/places, and half guide! You need a fun and energetic guide, delicious and varied food, and places that come with interesting stories. The rest like history, general knowledge isnt as important (not that it was lacking here). With Scott its an easy check, check, check.

I’m not going to spoil this for you by naming any of the places. I think its best not to know much. But there were quite a few surprises even for someone like myself and my oldest that spends much time in the area. I can tell you that I had some exceptional Szechuan, fantastic noodles, and a delicious item at a place I frequent but never had it. On top, you get a good sense of the local cuisine breakdown that will help you understand what Chinatown is all about.

And doing all this with Scott is the icing on the cake. He developed a special rapport with the vendors, and even learned some of the language. Seeing Chinatown on your own or through a local like this is unquestionably night and day. Its not only the preferred way, but a potential highlight of your entire trip. But I would wholeheartedly recommend this tour to locals as well.

https://ultimatefoodtours.com/

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Leitao – Meet NYC’s Best Portuguese

Its 2024, and you would think by now we should have Portuguese Churrasqueiras spinning Rotisserie chicken in every neighborhood like in cities all over our northern neighbor. Not only we dont have that, but Portuguese food in general just never took off outside of maybe Newark, NJ. Szechuan, Thai, Korean and more took off in a spectacular way. Even Birria, something that no one knew anything about 5 years ago, can now be found in every hood. In other words, the title is not a stretch.

As I already mentioned in the latest Z-List update, Leitao is my favorite discovery of the year so far. And sadly, I dont usually discover them this way. I noticed Leitao while exploring the area, as opposed to the usual way, exploring social media. The first thing I noticed was the most ambitious Portuguese menu I’ve seen outside of Portugal, by quite a margin.

Leitao opened during the pandemic by a chef/owner from Braga. And my guess is that they opted to skip the mandatory payment to the social media mafia, opting for the good ol’ word of mouth instead. It probably took some time, but by the look of things, it paid off. In both my visits so far including at off hours, the place was mobbed, and many seem to be repeaters. We repeated two weeks after the first visit. Something as rare as summer Olympics.

The closest I got to Braga was the stunning Bom Jesus. Equally as spectacular, and maybe even as spiritual to some, is that Leitao menu which reads like the Best of Portugal. It even includes the namesake, an entire Suckling Pig meal for only $400. From my experience the Portuguese do it better than the Spaniards. After trying much of the menu, some winners emerged, and zero duds. Big menus can mean big problems, plenty of thrills, or both. Much depends on the head chef ability to handle it. So far so good…

Porco Preto – If I have to pick one unsung hero that is not getting the proper credit here. Well marbled Iberico Ribs cooked with wine and topped with a toasted garlic and chili mix. Easily falls off the bone and supremely flavorful. An absolute must.

Camarao ao Alho – Beautiful plump shrimp on top of a thick(er) Bourbon, Garlic, Lobster sauce. Comes with a nice surprise, a basket of fresh Baguettes from Orwasher bakery.

Shishito Peppers – Heaps of smoked paprika and chili, sitting on a thin, almost hidden layer of yoghurt. They provide spice levels on the menu, an this is listed as a 5. While not too spicy by any stretch, its spicy enough to affect other dishes.

Robalo – Another must that we had to have on both visits so far is this butterflied Seabass. Big flavors from the spinach sauce, EVOO, and smoked paprika rub on top. Reminded me of the famous fish at Contramar in Mexico City rather than anything we had in Portugal.

Piri Piri Chicken – Not the most tender chicken in town, but tender enough, flavor packed, and probably the most popular dish here.

Salad de Polvo (top)- You know it will be good just by the look and initial touch. The classic mammoth Portuguese no frills but plenty of thrills octopus. Outside of maybe Newark, not so easy to find in the Metrolopitan area. One of two solid Polvos on the menu.

Francesinha – If you never had a Francesinha you are in for a treat. Not quite Porto-esque, but not bad at all. An elaborate sandwich of Fillet Mignon, chorizo and salami covered with melted mozzarella and beer sauce. I shared it with three others, and still was able to taste plenty. Not sure if you can get it topped with egg as you can get in Porto.

Polvo – Unlike the salad, the “Polvo” is sliced and comes with fried potatoes and chorizo. Something I’d order again, even though I’m not sure I prefer over the Polvo salad.

Pasteis de Nata – I’m not even sure what other desserts they offer after seeing these babies being paraded all over the place. They look a little burnt but they dont taste like it. Flaky and fantastic.

Drinks are solid as well. Good Beer menu, and Portuguese inspired cocktails like Porto Tonico.

Leitao
547 Hudson St (West Village)
Recommended Dishes: All of the above especially the Porco Preto, Robalo and any of the Octopus

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An Update to the Update

Two days after I updated the Z-List, of course Khe-Yo closes. Just two days shy of its 11th bday. One of the only if not the only Laos restaurants in NYC. Although its been a staple on the list for a while, I haven’t been for dinner since the pandemic. Our last meal was lunch a few years back. I get the sense that rising costs was a big factor. Running a restaurant in NYC especially in that part of the city is as tough as it ever been, and prices reflect. Speaking of pricy, Khe-Yo is replaced by the excellent Raoul’s on the list.

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Z-List Update

Still trying to keep the list at 30. 4 in, 4 out this time. I tried to include the excellent Ulivo and a few others but I got too many such places especially Italian. Leitao is the most exciting new find this year, but the rest are not too shabby, and not exactly new discoveries.

Out

Danji – Closed for too long due to fire. Not sure when and if it will reopen
Cull and Pistol – “So crowded no one goes there anymore” – Chelsea Market in a nutshell today
Somtum Der – Nothing wrong with SD. Just freshening up the list with new(er) Thai
Jun-Men Ramen – No longer open for lunch on weekdays so havent been in a while.

In

Song e Napule
Leitao
Thai Diner
Claro

The complete list

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Omakase Ichi – Staten Island’s First Omakase Dazzles

Solid Ramen – check (Ohkami Ramen). Thai – check (Chang Noi Thai). Filipino – check (Phil-Am Kusina). Chinese – work in progress. Omakase – finally! Not that I’ve been holding my breath. But I had to do a triple take when I noticed Ichi on an awkward corner of Amboy while standing on a red light. Omakase is the last thing I expected to see there, though there’s no corner on this island where one would expect it. Refreshing to say the least, especially considering just about every opening lately is Turkish. This island needs Turkish like I need a stone in my shoe.

I’ve never been this excited about eating on the island. Come to think of it, I’ve never really been excited, period. Not to take away anything from many of the places we enjoy like the above mentioned and all the wonderful Sri Lankan. Its just that after 25 years of living here, we’ve been programmed to curb our enthusiasm. But this is Omakase!

Jimmy Wong, the owner, was one of three capable hands behind the counter. He first tested the waters of Long Island before opening his second location on Staten Island three months ago. I guess he figured Manhattan needs another Omakase like we need shingles (last one, I promise). Whether it will work here, I’m very curious to find out. There’s practically zero marketing with Ichi. An ambitious and expensive project to rely on red lights and word of mouth, but I truly hope it works.

You got 10 counter seats, three time slots (4, 6, 8), and ample parking about a block away. A fun, energetic hostess will loosen you up if needed. As with many of the high end Japanese in NYC, fish arrives daily from Japan. I believe the price was $115 p/p for 16 courses. In Staten Island its a special occasion type. In Manhattan, its Wednesday.

Omakase literally means “I leave the details up to you”, but you do get a sense of the kind of details to expect. Some crafty appetizers followed by a bunch of premium grade fish. But there were some surprises. Like the best Miso soup you will ever have that comes with mushrooms and a succulent scallop. Or the monkfish liver that comes with a syringe. And there was a jewelry box containing a truffle infused tuna tartare crispy roll on top of popcorn.

The “main” fish courses were the good, the great, and the dud. The lone dud was a mushy shrimp. Unless I’m on the coast of Sicily or some parts of Puglia munching on red shrimp, I’m not a fan of raw shrimp to begin with. The rest of the items especially the Uni, Scallop, Tuna Belly, King Salmon were superb or close.

As one would expect from a pricy Omakase, there were plenty of expensive ingredients like truffles, caviar, uni, but still letting the fish shine. The Sake was as exceptional as it gets from someone who doesnt drink Sake often. And the entire experience was memorable. Welcome to the neighborhood Ichi. Even though I cant afford you more than once or twice a year.

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Breakfast by Salt’s Cure – Clinton St for Locals

I dont believe that a PhD in Mathematics is enough to figure out the exact amount of syrup required on any given pancakes. How often do we put too little, too much, way too little, way too much, especially if its something like Trader’s Joe’s frozen blueberry pancakes. And then there’s the butter. How much is enough. Its 2024, and I have plenty of life challenges on the plate.

And what kind of Syrup anyway. My Aunt Jemima daughters would rebel when we served anything else. For years we would put both Aunt Jemima and Maple syrup on the table. Until they both moved out, and we gradually got rid of AJ. But turns out, they eventually move back in, so we met them halfway. Yes to Nutella (especially during Matzoh season), but no to Aunt Jemima.

Gothamist

Turns out someone on the west coast figured it all out. In 2010 the first Breakfast by Salt’s Cure opened in LA, and the lines quickly followed. “Breakfast” is the spinoff to Salt’s Cure (sugar?), a popular LA brunch spot hailed for the item that was essentially spun off, the Oatmeal Griddle Cake. Chris Phelps, the brain behind this has been perfecting these “pancakes” since age two.

As you can see, these pancakes wont win any beauty awards. Maybe miss congeniality. But they are as good as any pancakes you’ll ever have. And they certainly dont need syrup. In fact its a “no syrup for you” policy in all four locations (two in LA, two in NYC). Phelp’s Oatmeal mix, available for purchase, includes the perfect amount of cinnamon molasses. Not too sweet at all.

I’ve been passing through the lines at the West Village location for many months now. Coming at 9 am on a Sunday meant a 10-15 min wait. By 10 am it was more like 30 mins. Once inside you order and pay at the counter, and wait for them at your table. You have the option of various flavors like banana and blueberry. I was partial to the Banana with nuts, while the rest of the family preferred the original.

The combos add eggs and sausages to the mix, but even those items are not your typical diner variety. The eggs whether soft scrambled runny, sunny or over, are perfect. With regular pancakes and a dollop of syrup, eggs usually need to be completely separated. The sausages are more like thin eastern European cutlets. Not a bad thing. I went for the pork, but there’s also chicken and chickpeas (like a falafel cutlet I suppose). The saltiness of the sausages compensate for the lack on the eggs.

While tourists, rightfully so, wait for the pancakes at Clinton St Bakery, locals these days go to Salt’s Cure. While the pancakes at CSB are indeed good, I think much of the flavor comes from their warm Maple Butter, and the pancakes arent really as unique as Salt’s Cure. According to the hard working EWZ historians this is my first (and probably last) Breakfast post. Which means its an obvious Go!

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Pippali – The Curious Case of an Empty Room

Pippalinyc.com

I heard the stories of this phenomena in Flatiron, but had to witness it for myself. A great restaurant in NYC with an almost empty room. I’ve been eating in NYC long enough to run across such places on occasion, usually of the ethnic variety. Gazala’s in Hell’s Kitchen comes to mind. Being the only Druze in NYC (and possibly US), featured on Guy Fieri’s DDD, and a staple on the world famous EWZ tours didnt save Gazala before it closed a few years ago. Although there’s still a Gazala in UWS.

For much of our meal at Pippali, the room was completely empty. Two other occupied tables when we arrived, and two new groups showed up before we left. Possible explanations:

  1. Its Indian in Curry Hill. With a plethora of such places in the area, supply and demand can vary and may not be in its favor for a good portion of the time.
  2. The room is on the dark side. Its not the darkest room Ive seen, not even close. But dark enough for this kind of space to be slightly uncomfortable. Every time I got a glimpse of the kitchen I was envious of the amount of light there. Our particularly dark corner didnt help.
  3. Consistency issues? TBD. So far every single dish has been rock solid, and trusted sources on HungryOnion reported similar experiences.

First order of business in any Indian is sample any of the kebabs. A HO tip has led me to the Lucknowi Seekh Kababs and boy were they glorious. Not the dark skinny Seekhs you get elsewhere. To borrow a Seinfeld quote, “These were real and they’re spectacular”. Bright, hefty, and perfectly spiced. Add the accompanied green sauce midway for a nice change of pace, but no flavor enhancement needed.

The curries were quite respectable as well. A fine Butter Chicken, on the tomatoee side, and not overly creamy. Ludhiana Curry was even better. A Punjabi specialty that I havent seen before in NYC. It has the consistency of a simple curry with the flavor profile of a complex, herby one, with ultra tender chicken to boot.

I couldnt find any faults with the Chicken Dum Biryani, though I should have probably tried the goat or lamb instead in that order. Didnt bother with a picture. They all look more or less the same. The garlic Nun is as good as it gets in NYC. Not the stale ones you sometimes get elsewhere.

Pippali has the potential to be my favorite new accessible Indian on the island. With Saar disappointing last time, and Chote Nawab not strong enough to come back on a regular basis, this might just be it for takeout and dine-in. I just need the word to spread just enough to keep them in business.

Pippali
129 E 27th St (Flatiron)
Recommended Dishes: Lucknowi Seekh Kababs, Ludhiana Curry, Butter Chicken, Biryani

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The Thai Diner Survival Guide

Why should you go?

Thai Diner (aka Uncle Boons 2.0) is one of the most popular if not the most poplar Thai restaurant in NYC that tourists generally dont know about. Dont worry locals, I’m not gonna change that as I dont have that kind of reach. But sharing is caring. One way you can check whether a place is touristy is simply by looking at Trip Advisor reviews compared to the more local Yelp, and Google. A whopping 26 reviews compared to 871 (Yelp), and 1569 (Google). Thats as local as it gets for a Manhattan establishment.

It took me a few visits to warm up to Uncle Boons, but I’m beginning to like Thai Diner even more. The space is more welcoming, and more comfortable (emphasis on more than the predecessor which was fairly uncomfortable). Love the decor, the Pure Thai Cookhouse-like Thai music. I never understood why so many ethnic places play American music. Who wants to listen to Sweet Caroline while munching on Szechuan food. Well, according to Trevor Noah its every single white person, but you know what I mean.

When should you go?

Its always busy, and waits are inevitable. They take a very limited number of reservations, so you can pretty much forget about reserving. But that just means you have a better shot at getting a table than popular places that do take full reservations. I call it the Via Carotta effect. If you are like us and have no problem combining lunch and dinner, than 4pm is your best bet. Even on Sundays there was no line at 4. By 6pm you are well fed and you are good for the rest of the day. Otherwise, come earlier, put your name down, and play tourist in NoLita/Little Italy/Chinatown.

What should you eat?

Its a smart mix of creative and classic. Every meal for many of us starts with the sick Disco Fries and ends with the Coconut Sundae. The latter is a masterpiece that includes candied peanuts, coconut gelato, coconut caramel, and to add much needed coconut flavor, toasted coconut. Another must is the crab fried rice. The Khao Soi is very solid but messy to share if more than two. The Turmeric Roti with the curry dip is terrific, as well as the Phat See Ew with fried chicken (some prefer the other chicken option, but I like the fried). The only dish I’d avoid is the Green Curry with braised beef. Sounds great, but large chunks of meh quality beef isnt doing it for me.

Who should you bring?

Ok, this survival guide is getting ridiculous Ziggy. But hear me out. This is not your typical Thai eatery in NYC where I normally have to do some begging for a little bit of heat. And while its not exactly “Thai spicy”, BYOB (Bring your own Bounty) like Ugly Baby, its bald flavors arent for everyone. Since the spoiled Mrs Z doesnt always remember the names of places we visit, I have to refer to them in other ways. Thai Diner is the “coughing place” after a memorable spicy coughing attack one time. Meaning its not the place for your mother in law’s 70’s bday celebration. Take adventurous eaters that appreciate good food and can handle a bit of heat.

What about Brunch?

Yes, please. This is one of the areas that sets Thai Diner apart, and where the creativity shines. Its a popular Brunch option for many, and one of the reasons is the outstanding, hurt so good, egg sandwich. Its wrapped in Roti that absorbs much heat so its a bit difficult to hold with bare hands, but its worth it. Thai flavors mixed with eggs, even in the morning is like magic. The Thai Tea Babka French Toast is popular as well.

What should I wear?

Khakis, loose clothing, funeral sunglasses for those not used to bald flavors.

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