Brooklyn

RUA Thai – More Awesomeness on Smith

Posted on January 14, 2025 by Ziggy

Smith Street in Brooklyn is having a moment, again. Very few people know that Smith Street was Brooklyn’s original Restaurant Row, before greedy landlords brought things to a halt around 2016. Any locals here remember Saul? The first Brooklyn restaurant to receive a Michelin star, literally putting Smith St on the map, for me at least. The run lasted less than a decade.

RUA Thai is one of a plethora of eateries responsible for the revival and at the same time early revival casualties. Popular places like the fiery BYOB (Bring Your Own Bounty) Ugly Baby, and FOB Filipino either priced out or lost their luster amidst the International expansion. When you look closer today, Smith Street is covering the International scene, from Ramen to Mexican to French, like very few NYC streets. Last month I told you about “Stupid Good” Bar Bete, one of the more interesting new arrivals on Smith.

On the initial glance, RUA might look like just another Thai, not terribly different than the rest. You got all the rainbow color curries, the usual wok suspects, Drunken Noodles of course, crab fried rice and just about every Thai dish known to man. NYC man at least. But looking under the hood, you find a playful menu with plenty of signatures by a NYC Thai veteran. Chef/owner Kornpon Theeraumpornkul grew up around the floating markets of Ratchaburi where he got much of his inspirations.

With such an extensive menu, the three of us just scratched the surface. Other than Mrs Z’s uneven “Lychee Tini” there was no dud in the house. With drinks, any disappointment is usually met with some approval of my own bartending skills. Especially when it comes to Lychee Martinis as she’ll attest. Is there a patting myself on the back emoji?

Started with Shumai-like Dumplings that were above average, and way above once you dipped them in the accompanied curry sauce. I could drink this like a smoothie. The fried wings were ladened with addictive larb seasoning, featuring pleasant lime and chili notes. But the star early on was the signature Shrimp Donuts. Not particularly distinct flavor wise, but quite unique and tasty nonetheless.

The Pad Keep Mao (Drunken Noodles) is above average. Although I really need to stop ordering this with a protein other than seafood. I’ve had the seafood version at RUA on a lunch visit once and it was outstanding. Another signature is the Mama Tom Yum Grilled River Prawns with noodles and veggies spilling out of the Mama bucket. Yes, get this. Good crab fried rice as well although I regret not getting something a bit more interesting for the same price like the Crying Tiger.

“No Dessert Tonight” was code for “We are very busy and understaffed”. While it felt like they were understaffed, especially from our vantage in the front, it was still remarkable that two people somehow managed to run the front while helping the back at the same time. One of the servers handled the bar, took our orders, and spent significant time in the kitchen. Less than a third of the number of employees we find in similar size joints in NYC. That’s one way to survive Smith Street.

RUA Thai
204 Smith St, Brooklyn (Cobble Hill)
Recommended Dishes: Fried wings, Shrimp Donuts, Shrimp and chicken dumplings, Drunken Noodles, Mama Tom Yum Grilled River Prawns

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Ocean View Cafe – Veselka Without the Hoopla

Posted on January 5, 2025 by Ziggy

Starting 2025 with a lazy one. Blogging is kinda like sex. The more you do it, the better it gets, until you get to the age where the more you do it, the worse it gets (I heard). Hormones often dictate how often we blog and the quality of the posts. Am I in the mood to write a short post about Carnitas Ramirez (spoiler alert: Best tacos in Manhattan, maybe in NYC), another large(ish) post on Piedmont, or just binge-watch Yellowstone. On this lazy Sunday, I have a compromise. A post/reblog.

Ocean View Cafe is like some of these misleading Aruba hotel ads. Is it really ocean view, or even partial ocean view? The cafe is close, but quite far from the ocean. It’s more like Babushka and elevated train tracks view. I never bothered to ask any of the workers or the owner why its called as such in the decades that I’ve gone there. To be honest, I usually keep my conversations to the minimum (“two bags of frozen Pelmeni please”), and I never actually had a conversation with the owner. I’ve also never seen him smile or even talk to anyone. A “made man”?

Maybe we should ask Nicholas Cage. He is more intimately familiar with Ocean View Cafe since filming Lord of War there. You still see his pictures on one side of the wall, although I recall pictures on the other side as well at some point. Nicholas Cage Cafe would have been more appropriate than Ocean View.

Other than less Cage pictures, not much has changed in all these decades other than the neighborhood itself. Brighton Beach is less Russian, and more Uzbek, Georgian, Armenian, etc. Ocean View is one of the last of the true Russian/Ukrainian diners, although I dont recall ever a place quite like it in Brighton Beach. Its Veselka without the hoopla and lines.

After attending the annual Jan 1st Polar Bear Plunge in Coney Island, Borscht and Pelmeni at Ocean View Cafe felt like the obvious choice. Well, more like Borscht for them, Kharcho (The Georgian better tasting cousin) for me. Although, this is just about the only place on the planet where I’d have Borscht. This time we also tried a fine Chicken Tabaka, another Georgian classic. A slow cooked crispy, juicy, butterflied chicken. Along with potato Pierogies/Varenikiy, and fried potatoes with mushrooms.

Ok, enough with the blogging. Here’s a reblog of one of my favorite NYC posts. Back to Yellowstone and Hockey…

A Day in Brighton Beach
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Bar Bête – Stupid Good!

Posted on December 10, 2024 by Ziggy

Smith Street in Carroll Gardens is the gift that keeps on giving… and taking, as of late. Z-List darling FOB Filipino just closed and Ugly Baby is closing at the end of the year. While old and new like Avlee Greek Kitchen, Mama Capri, the excellent Rua Thai, and Bar Bête still making sure its one of Brooklyn’s best food streets. And shops like Smith & Vine and its selection of Vermouth and other goodies make it more worthwhile. We pay hefty tolls for the pleasure of visiting Smith Street.

Bar Bête is probably the most important addition on Smith in recent years. Ugly Baby, FOB may have started the cute name trend. Bête is slang for silly, or stupid. As in “Qu’est-ce qu’il est bête!” – How stupid he is! Hence, the title of the post. But its fitting in more ways than one. It is unequivocally stupid good. I usually find things to complain about. Not much luck here.

Thankfully we were told from the start of the meal that the food is for sharing. I was just about to order a full plate of curried cashews all for myself. Maybe the reason they keep telling us this is because we are usually the oldest people in the room (And I’m only in my late 40’s. 54 to be exact). “Is this your first time here” isnt very different than “Are you new to dining out” in places with menus and concept not wildly different than the rest. Not a complaint. Just an observation.

Bar Bête is a casual corner Bistro that happens to be literally on a corner. Its casual, but fancy enough to wear your new Untuckit shirt you got for the holidays. Its listed as “French” but to me its more like “New American” utilizing French techniques. The chef has extensive experience in high end dining in Vegas, Toronto and elsewhere. As as far as what we tried, a rare moment where I recommend every single dish. In fact, I wouldnt mind coming back without trying anything new.

Bar Bete

Started with a bang. Very few items can be as satisfying as a well executed, buttery Chicken liver Parfait. This one, with pistachios and spiced pear jam is as good as we’ve had in a long time. More awesomeness followed in the form of a Tuna Toast, one of the most popular items on the menu. A layer of fermented chili & garlic chive spread really elevates this.

The Duck Fat Potatoes is viewed by many, including the Infatuation, as the best thing on the menu. That honor should probably go to the Duck instead. The potatoes is really just an excellent side. Imagine a solid Patatas Bravas, except the pieces are bigger so meatier. The Hummus lookalike that comes with it is a fine garlic aioli. The Ricotta Gnudi is another standout. A common theme throughout the meal is balanced, deep flavors partially from the good use of chili.

The Caramelized Duck Breast is a dish we are still talking about three days later. Not only because it was the top dish, but also because we are still trying to figure out how I failed taking a picture of it. The picture I took just didnt develop somehow. The duck itself was cooked and spiced perfectly, but what really made the dish is the extremely aromatic smoky bed of cabbage.

The Yellow Cake with the chocolate frosting tastes exactly how you’d expect. A satisfying finish, but I suppose this is the only dish I’d consider skipping next time, in favor of the Creme Brulee. Try both. Only three cocktails on the menu was perfectly fine with us, and two of them quite good. Wine menu very French leaning as expected. Already looking forward coming back. Go!

Bar Bête
263 Smith St (Degraw, Carroll Gardens)
Recommended Dishes: Chicken liver Parfait, Tuna Toast, Duck Fat Potatoes, Gnudi, Caramelized Duck Breast, Yellow Cake

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Hainan Chicken House – Score One More for SP

Posted on September 2, 2024 by Ziggy

Reason #157 to visit Sunset Park in Brooklyn, arguably one of the top five food neighborhoods in the entire city. Also happens to be another reason why you dont see me write about Queens much. I’ve written more about Spain, Portugal, even Quebec City than the foodie haven borough of Queens. Location, traffic makes it easier for me to visit Philly than Queens. And the many gems of Sunset Park makes that decision easier. Even when we finally commit to head over to Queens like yesterday, we somehow end up in Sunset Park.

Those that took my Brooklyn food tour (RIP) remember this part of Brooklyn well. Whether its the best egg tart in the city where they know me by the last 4 digits of my number, like a prisoner. The scene and flavors of the food court of Fei Long Market. Or Bamboo Garden, possibly the most authentic and popular Dim Sum Palace in NYC, standing in place of the disco from Saturday Night Fever.

During the SNV days, this Chinatown didnt exist. Today its the fasters growing and largest Chinatown in the city, probably north America. In the 80’s, Cantonese speakers from overcrowded and gentrified Manhattan Chinatown started moving to Brooklyn, followed by immigrants from Fujian. Rumors were circulating that 8th ave in Brooklyn is the real “road to wealth”. 8 of course is a lucky number in Chinese culture.

A thriving Chinatown also means a healthy Malaysian food scene, and all three NYC Chinatowns have that. Hainan Chicken House opened by Malaysian New Yorkers in 2023, and fairly quick fame followed. The team didnt realize that a certain neighborhood regular visiting the place was actually Pete Wells. Two NYT stars, and a spot on the NYT top 100 later, and I’m munching on the same spicy noodles for the third time, surrounded by white dudes.

After nibbling on the same dish in previous visits, I finally came back with friends for a proper meal. That said dish, Char Kway Teow is a noodle masterpiece. A gorgeous concoction of egg noodles, shrimp, clams, squid, bean sprouts and more, stir-fried to perfection. Its the Malyasian answer to the Thai Pad Kee Mao (Drunken Noodles).

The specialty of the house, Hainan Chicken Rice is served hawker street food style wrapped in paper. We opted for the roasted chicken. While not my favorite dish here, every visitor should try this at least once. Worst case scenario, you’ll suffer along with a well seasoned rice, and a Ménage à trois of three distinct sauces.

The table issued no complaints about the curry puffs, or chicken Satay skewers served with a sublime spicy peanut sauce. But our favorite discovery this time was the Char Siu, a marvelous, well executed roasted pork belly. You’ll be hard pressed to find better pork belly texture/flavor combination. Just the proper thickness and none of that softness you get sometimes in Thai places. Go!  

Hainan Chicken House
4807 8th Ave (Brooklyn)
Recommended Dishes: Char Kway Teow, Pork Belly, Curry Puffs, Chicken Satay

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Laser Wolf – Winner on the Roof

Posted on August 11, 2024 by Ziggy

Lazar Wolfe, the butcher from Fiddler on the Roof, will need to settle for a rooftop restaurant in NYC to be named after him after being rejected by Tevye’s daughter Tzeitel. Not enough? Ok, throw in another restaurant in Philly, 12 goats, and a concept that not everyone understands.

Michael Solomonov is arguably the country’s most renowned Israeli chef (Alon Shaya fans might have a say). His empire in Philly includes Zahav, Dizengoff and Laser Wolf among other places. Dizengoff, the Humuseria still going strong in Philly after an unsuccessful run in NYC’s Chelsea Market. I remember sitting in Chelsea Market having a long conversation with Michael, thinking what can possibly go wrong. Turns out its location, location, location. Tourists simply dont care much for Hummus.

What followed was another concept, and what looks like a more successful NYC run. The concept might sound simple, but in the restaurant industry nothing is. Choose an item from the grill menu and they’ll take care of the rest. That includes 10 salatim, the world famous Hummus and pita, and ice cream. So say, the Chicken Shishlik (fancy for kebab) and its shocking sticker price of $50 includes all the other stuff, valued at $26 on their own.

Easy, schmeasy, no? I think even Lazar the butcher would appreciate a scheme like this where everyone wins including our precious brain cells. They really need to do a study on how much time men spend thinking about what to order. We think about tomorrow’s dinner after breakfast yesterday, and if its a restaurant we know the menu by heart hours, sometimes days prior to the meal.

Laser Wolf

Yet so many reviewers are confused and/or totally miss the mark. “You are paying for the views”, “5 meatballs for $55?”, and my favorite, “the chef should be very transparent that shishlik and koobideh are Iranian foods, not Israeli”. People are not only confused about Israeli food, but prices in NYC. Expect to pay the average for a NYC full service meal, $80-100 pp.

My only gripe is that the Salatim didnt have the same oomph as the original Philly location. The two eggplant dishes, roasted Bulgarian style, and Babaganoush were the standouts, though the only thing we ordered more (beside the Hummus) were the pickles. The fact that you can taste a bunch of small plates and order more (free of charge) of your favorites is a feature in itself.

The best part of that feature is the ability to ask for more pita and Hummus, some of the best in the business. Similar to Alon Shaya’s Safta and Saba (Denver, NOLA), it’s some serious chickpea magic. Dizengoff and its Hummus menu that includes an array of toppings would thrive in more local, health conscious environments like Tribeca, East and West Village.

As for the grill items, this time we tasted the newish multi-meat Keves Kebab, a respectable Mititei (Romanian style kebab) like meatballs. And a fine Steak Shishlik that didnt lack texture nor flavor. The Dorade, even though slightly overcooked was a table favorite, and a decent size. There’s even a punchy Date-Harissa Wings that comes with Tehina Ranch from the a la carte menu. Getting that instead of a grill item means adding an order of Hummus + Salatim, unless you are eating solo and/or skip the salads altogether.

If you have a choice go to the cheaper and arguably better Philly location. But Laser Wolf at the top of the Hoxton hotel in Williamsburg is a sound option for middle eastern fair in NYC. And the views of the Manhattan skyline are not too shabby either.

Laser Wolf
97 Wythe Ave (Brooklyn)
Recommended Dishes: Hummus + Slalatim, chicken liver Pate, wings, Steak Shishlik, Keves, Dorade

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Cotra – An Izakaya Sensation in Gowanus

Posted on August 2, 2024 by Ziggy

June 30, 2025 Update: The more I try, the better this place gets. The north Brooklyn food scene is very strong at the moment, and Cotra is quickly becoming a top 5, if not top 3 for us and friends. Talking of which, it’s best to come here with friends, preferably not picky, in order to try more. Great bar scene all around the neighborhood for a pre/post meal drink. Though my favorite discovery this time was a Spanish market called Mercado Central on the corner of Third and Union. A nice selection of tinned seafood and other items, some hard to get.

The Addictive Cabbage is still that, but it will feel less so once you try the brilliant Sun Dried Tomato Edamame, and/or Spicy Cucumber. Something happened to the Okonomi Fried Potato that made me appreciate it much more this time. Maybe the crispiness, the sauce combination, or maybe hypnosis by the dazzling Bonito Flakes. I can look at them all day.

The Mochiko Chicken is still fabulous. The steak is better to share just between two, so I skipped this time. The Tonkatsu (fried pork cutlet) is solid, but a little basic when compared to the rest. Perhaps the best discovery this time was a butterflied whole Branzino with the bones removed. Beautifully cooked, and a nice combination of complimentary items. As for drinks, try the Suigei Tokubetsu Junmai (Drunken Whale) Sake.

Aug 2, 2024 Post:

I’ll make this one short and sweet. This Izakaya in the very up and coming Gowanus is excellent. One of those meals where every aspect of the experience satisfied. From the ease of making reservations (a luxury in NYC), to the food, and prices. Paying $150 for two for a full service meal with my usual overordering these days is like going retro 2018. Happy hour prices on a Saturday night helped, but the menu is still fairly priced for NYC.

Opened just over a year ago by three friends with extensive cooking experience. A typical Izakaya menu with sprinkles of innovation and the execution of a high end French/Japanese. Its the type of fun extensive menu where I want to try every single dish. Being a “tapas bar” means you can try a bunch of small dishes, or mix in one or two large ones. The most expensive item at the moment is the Ribeye ($36). Have you seen the prices of high end meats in restaurants all over the city these days?

I have said it before and I will say it again. Gowanus is transforming into a force to be reckoned with. In neighborhoods as such you need to differentiate yourself in order to attract outsiders and become a destination spot. Its incredibly tough to simply rely on immediate area locals. “Lets go walk around in the Gowanus” is something almost no one ever said here. And if they did then the most likely reply would be “what is that”.

The food rundown…

Addictive Cabbage – True to the name. Yamitsuki (“addictive”) izakaya-style cabbage. Crispy, nicely dressed. It grows on you quickly, and tastes even better with other dishes like the fried chicken. Before you know it, you really cant stop eating it.

Fried Potatoes – With Bonito Flakes and sweet Okonomi sauce. A serviceable dish. Some may be surprised at the sweetness but it works.

Mochiko Chicken – Just what you would expect even in high end Japanese. Expertly cooked fried chicken with Harissa Mayo. Light batter, supremely tender, and juicy.

Spicy Tuna on Crispy Rice – Very solid. Even though I was hoping for for better tuna/rice ratio there was plenty of flavor here, and I would order again.

Yakiniku Ribeye Steak – Perfectly cooked, well marbled Ribeye with Miso Scallion Butter (a bit chunky but fine). They keep rotating their steak offerings but I imagine they cant do much wrong with any of them.

Mrs Z wanted ice cream in Dumbo and my immediate thought was the excellent Miso Cherry from OddFellows. So no dessert sampling here, but hopefully this is the start of another beautiful relationship. Go!

Cotra
451 Carroll St (Brooklyn)
Recommended Dishes: Addictive Cabbage, Mochiko Chicken, Spicy Tuna on Crispy Rice, Potatoes, Yakiniku Ribeye Steak, Branzino, Sun Dried Tomato Edamame, Spicy Cucumber

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Claro – From Oaxaca With Love

Posted on March 12, 2024 by Ziggy

Fuck congestion pricing. There you have it. The first EWZ post that starts with the F word. I felt it was time. For many of us, driving to the city is expensive as it is. We have to pass multiple bridges and tunnels, some of the most expensive in the world, just to face yet another hefty tax for the privilege. And no, there’s practically zero chance that I will rely on a bus late at night, during bad weather and other situations. We’ll most likely still make plenty of trips as my oldest lives there, but I may need to pivot.

That pivot will require to rely more on less discovered neighborhoods like Gowanus, Brooklyn. Go ahead, I’ll wait while you Google it. You can be a 10 time visitor or even a local that never heard of this neighborhood. Although its tucked between the more famous and eatery heavy Park Slope and Carroll Gardens, you only find yourself in industrial Gowanus if you go to Whole Foods. It looks and feels like a Red Hook extension. The kind of neighborhood where dads playing ukuleles in front of babies in a brewery isnt out of the ordinary.

Add Claro as another reason to go. From the outside and in it looks like your typical rustic Red Hook/Gowanus neighborhood joint. But the food tells a different story. It may sound like a cliche, but if there’s one thing I learned in Mexico City last year, was that Mexican food in the US is quite different than Mexican food there. You expect it but dont realize the extent when you spend time there. Claro, although Oaxacan by nature, is closer to the full service CDMX experience than any place I’ve been to in NYC.

You can visit Claro a dozen times without realizing it boasted a Michelin star until last year. The prices do reflect higher end Mexican, but that was also the case before the Michelin star. Many restaurants like Rezdora, Jeju Noodle Bar often change menus and even decor to try match Michelin expectations, but you get the sense that Claro just wanted to stay the same. Maybe that’s why they couldnt maintain the star.

Masa, Mezcal, and superb raw materials is the name of the game. A concentrated menu that will make you want to bring friends that appreciate good food. While picky eaters can manage, there’s not enough variety to satisfy. Though the excellent Mezcal lineup and based drinks can keep them entertained.

We started with Tuna Tostada, the only dish I’ve had here before. The tuna was bright and flavorful, as were the rest of the ingredients. But its closer to a refreshing salad than a Tostada. Not a bad thing. The Garnachas de Venado was the first moment of brilliance. Two thick fried corn tortillas shaped like small hockey pucks, topped with braised venison. But what made the dish was the accompanied Curtido (fermented cabbage). Another winner was the outstanding Black Bass with green mole, topped with smoked Trout roe, and another beautiful concoction of Brussel sprouts, cabbage, and more.

But the piece de resistance was the Mole Negro. As the hefty price ($68) suggests, its more of a dish for two. It featured a succulent Bone Marrow with fried mole that added a nice texture, and a perfectly cooked short rib sitting on a bed of their famous mole. But it was the ugly duckling, a sad looking Tenderloin that was one of the best cooked meats I’ve had in a long time. It comes with Negi Onion (fancy for scallions), and their excellent tortillas. Their Masa is made in-house from imported Oaxacan corn.

Arroz con Leche with pineapple was the perfect finish to a rare flawless meal. Not too sweet, and not the soupy variety. As for drinks, you got your Mezcal pairing options, but we opted for Mezcal based drinks which were both well balanced and superb. Jungla – Milk Piunch for me, San Pascualito Rey for her. Go!

Claro
284 3rd Ave (Brooklyn)
Recommended Dishes: Tuna Tostada, Garnachas de Venado, Black Bass, Mole Negro, Arroz con Leche

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Taco Tuesday – Taqueria Ramirez

Posted on March 5, 2024 by Ziggy

If you are local, unless you’ve been living under a rock, or Staten Island, you probably heard of Taqueria Ramirez by now. The Greenpoint jewel has quickly become NYC’s taco mecca, with people making the pilgrimage from far and wide. The Los Tacos of the locals if you will. The place is so busy that if the line doesnt snake around the block, you might as well get on it. Like the infamous Cronut, this is why it took me years to finally try it. One of the perks of living in options galore NYC. FOMO is easy to avoid.

But on the first spring-like day of the year I figured it’s time. We got there 10 minutes prior to opening and the line already reached the corner. Its that uncomfortable moment where you are the one blocking the crosswalk for a few good minutes. Sorry 5 year old on a tiny pink bike. You need to go around me and risk death. I got more important business to take care of.

Taqueria Ramirez opened during the pandemic (Sep 21) by Greenpoint residents who grew up in CDMX. Its a small mystery that in a city of over 300,000 Mexicans, many of which in the food business, it took this long. But once you dive into the preparation and the technique, you begin to understand why. Perhaps for the same reasons you cant get a NYC style bagel outside of NYC. Spoiler alert: Its not the water.

The result was pretty much what I expected. Best Mexico City style tacos I’ve had outside of Mexico City, but not exactly Mexico City quality. We tried three of the six tacos they offer. I regretted not ordering a 4th as soon as I placed my order. What was I not thinking. I’m finally here. But three turned out to be plenty and quite filling.

As good as it was, the Suadero, a cut of beef and preparation very rarely seen in NYC was probably my least favorite. The Pastor was solid, and plentiful. It’s not exactly as flavor packed as what you find in CDMX but enjoyable nonetheless. The Longaniza was the most distinct tasting of the three. Its chorizo on crack. I’d gladly order all three again.

The place is tiny, and finding an open seat is like finding a Palapa in Aruba after 6 am. But since people are not staying long (around 10-15 minutes), and with some seating areas outside (no tables) everyone manages. The popularity makes the entire experience a bit hectic. But it was fun watching the crew of 5 at work.

One handles the Pastor (a meat “Trompo” that trumps every trompo I’ve seen), one in charge of the Tortillas (a bit on the greasy side), and you got the “punisher” that puts the final touches with his torch. Another in charge of the traffic, and one of the register. A well-oiled machine, making something out of nothing. And the area is nice enough to explore to make a half a day out of it. Go!

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Indian Table – A Goan Delight in Brooklyn

Posted on November 22, 2023 by Ziggy

Its official boys and girls. Indian Table is now my favorite Indian in NYC. It may change next month or even next week. But for the time being, this Cobble Hill gem fits my taste like a favorite pair of shoes that you can only wear once or twice a week. Otherwise you risk losing their efficiency or they become stinky.

Indian Table is far from the typical NYC Indian, even though they offer some typical dishes. Thankfully I might add, after trying their killer Butter Chicken. Indian Table is Goan at its core, so plenty of Goan and hence Portuguese influences throughout the menu. There’s even a Pasteis De Nata for dessert. At the helm is a seasoned Eric McCarthy whose resume includes Michelined Tamarind and Tulsi among other notables.

McCarthy’s latest is not the Michelin kind (although you never know), but a nice bridge between sophisticated and your corner casual Indian. There’s a smart wine and cocktail list, in addition to a headache inducing food menu. The manager can masterfully guide and help with the headaches. In addition to Goan specialties, Indian Table also offers Restaurant Week theme menus that highlight different regions. On my first visit, it was the Malvan region, with a group of “Chowhounds”.

As for the food, duds are hard to come by. Eric’s Punjabi Samosas are rock solid, while the tomato ladened crispy cauliflower is more typical. The star early on was the beautifully marinated Achari Chicken Tikka. Smoky, minty, and flavor packed. Speaking of smoky, we wished for more wonderful chorizo from “Auntie Rosie’s Choris Pao” and less of the other stuff (like the spongy bun) but I’d order it again.

The chicken lineup is the main headache culprit. It has everything I look for in an Indian restaurant including my long time friend, the Chicken Chettinad. I tend to pick places that have this on the menu. Peppery, well balanced, and really one of the best versions I’ve had. While the Butter Chicken was not on the menu this night, they happily made a solid version. A rare Xacuti (Goan specialty) was fine, though some did not appreciate the star anise and fennel notes.

Another hit was the Konkan Railway Mutton. Unclear if its a riff on the railway classic that was served on the trains between Bombay and Calcutta during British rule, or another railway creation. Regardless, its another tender, succulent, red pepper based goat curry. Mutton in Indian cuisine is referred to goat and sheep, just to confuse us further.

With all these meat dishes, I opted for Jackfruit Biryani. Jackfruit did an admirable job subbing for meat, with some aid from the potato, but I was still missing the meat slightly. Like when your favorite team wins the game, but dont play as well as they usually play. I wasnt missing the meat at all in the Achari Baigan (eggplant) however. A wonderful lineup, all washed down with a fine Sancerre which is quickly becoming our new favorite white.

Indian Table
234 Court St (Cobble Hill, Brooklyn)
Recommended Dishes: Achari Chicken Tikka, Choris Pao, Punjabi Samosas, Chicken Chettinad, Butter Chicken (ask if not on the menu), Konkan Railway Mutton, Achari Baigan

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Hummus and the City

Posted on October 18, 2023 by Ziggy

I will get back to our regularly scheduled programming in no time. But first, as I firmly, unapologetically stand with Israel, I want to share some of my favorite Israeli restaurants in NYC today. They can use some love these days.

Taste of Akko (Brooklyn)

Ok, if you read my previous post, you’d know I’m a little biased with this one. Its essentially taste of home for me. But after multiple visits to this homey fast-casual in the heart of Midwood, I’m very impressed. With only four or so tables, and with the animated owner, it really is like eating at someone’s house. Its a small, concentrated menu with much regard to ingredients and execution for such a casual place. The falafel plate in particular is a standout, but the hummus is no slouch

Falafel Tanami (Brooklyn)

I was there today for my monthly fix. I dont even selfishly miss the days when the place was empty and I could get my falafel in seconds. But the secret got out big time after Pete Wells shockingly included this hole in the wall in the Best 100 restaurants in NYC. I never imagined that a place like this can get such honor and be included with the Le Bernardins and Per Ses, but here we are. Very well deserved.

Courtesy of Tanami

Laser Wolf (Brooklyn)

Staying in Brooklyn but moving closer to tourist central. I’m a fan of the concept here. Order one dish and get a feast of Salatim, the best Hummus and Pita in the business, and ice cream. Oh did I mention all accept dessert is unlimited. And the view isnt too shabby either. There’s one little problem with this recommendation. As of this writing, I havent actually been here. Not from lack of trying. But I’ve been to the original Philly location that has exactly the same menu and concept.

19 Cleveland (Nolita)

Lousy name, great food. This is haute(ish) Israeli where you can still get some killer falafel and hummus, but also craftier items like eggplant carpaccio, fish shawarma and short rib Bourekas. I mentioned them not too long ago as a solid brunch choice, but lunch or dinner is just as good. As they proved with their little sister, these guys can flat out cook. Speaking of which…

Nish Nush (Tribeca)

When I used to work in Hell’s Kitchen, I was that guy that would hop on a Citibike to bike 30 minutes to Tribeca, and 45 bloated minutes back for a Falafel. This is still my go-to when I’m in the area. They widened their menu significantly but pretty much the only thing I get is still Falafel and the occasional Masabacha (hummus with chickpeas and egg)

Categories: Brooklyn, New York City, SoHo, NoHo, Nolita, TriBeCa | Tags: , , , , , , | 1 Comment

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