We are back from another trip to Basque Country. This time spending some time in Pays Basque Français. Spoiler alert: Its as stunning as Spain’s Basque if not more. Filled with striking old towns and picturesque villages like the home of this gem. I get the sense that younger people flock to San Sebastian and Bilbao due to social media pressure, while the older folk that know a thing or two, keep the French Basque a secret. Dont let them win!
When you do visit the cities and villages of Pays Basque, one of the first things you notice is Espelette everywhere. Espelette stores, Espelette spices, magnets, and other products. That’s because you are not too far from the famed village of Espelette, home to the renowned Espelette peppers. You’ll see the peppers hanging in random places, and the peppers heavily utilized in local cooking. Even when you order something as simple as a Gallete (Buckwheat crepes from Brittany) in Biarritz, chances are you’ll get it topped with Espelette butter. Even without the fame, Espelette is one of the most beautiful villages in France.
Choko Ona (“Good Place” or “Good Corner”) is just another reason to visit this village. A one Michelin that acts like one but priced like a Bib Gourmet. Smartly furnished space, housed in an 18th century house that today looks more like someone’s private home. One cool feature is the entire back side of the house can be wide open, overlooking their garden.
A creative menu featuring seasonal local ingredients. All handled by a young staff that speaks English and makes you feel at home. The only thing I didnt appreciate was sitting in front of a mirror ;). We changed spots midway much to the horror of the entire establishment.
We opted for the 4 courser, which of course was more like 6 or 7. Flawless to say the least. To start, in classic Michelin, outstanding tidbits to dazzle your palate. Then an Onion tart, pretty much just layers of braised onions topped with caramelized jus. One-note but an addictive one. Onion hater Mrs Ziggy cleaned her plate.
Then the most beautiful, delicate… Jewfish! Not an autocorrect. Maigre as its called here, aka Meagre, Croaker, Drum Fish, and other names, including yes, Jewfish apparently. An outdated name for some reason (I’m Jewish so I’m allowed to joke about this, but you are not) pretty much everywhere except Australia and other places. Regardless of what you call it, this was superb,
Kintoa pork, perfectly cooked medium-rare, super tender and juicy. Served with a leek topped with some sort of pesto, along with saffron pilaf rice and more delicious Jus. Kintoa is a local breed. Its called Kintoa because back in the day local farmers had to pay the king a fifth (Kintoa) of their pigs as tax. Hazelnut dessert, and more glorious tidbits was the perfect finish. Another highlight was the Brioche with, what else, Espelette butter.
One thing I really liked about Choko Ona is the pacing and the amount of food served. It should be more common especially in Michelin places, but not often you leave a tasting menu, satisfied, not full, while consuming plenty. We were still able to enjoy a multi course dinner that evening.
Eating With Ziggy 
We also just returned from two weeks in Basque Country, and yes Pays Basque is beautiful and charming. We had a rental in Louhassoa, near Espelette, and loved visiting the small towns in the area. Didn’t eat at Michelin restaurants, but had lovely meals at small places.
Sounds amazing!