Imagine this scenario. For a decade you dream about coming back to a place you ranked in the top 10 dining experiences in the world. You are finally back, and have another memorable meal, even while being somewhat under the weather. And when its time to update the post you wrote about this place 10 years ago, you discover that much of the old post was about Puerto Rican oven mitts, and bad dad jokes. Not the kind you normally expect on Google’s first page.
So instead of updating the old mess, I’ll just write a new one. But if you are looking for oven mitt tips, and some serious Piedmontese food porn, you may want to check out the original post, even though its a decade old. In Slow food country things change at a snail’s pace. And you get the sense that Alessandro, Massimo and Tiziano, the three brothers running the magic show at La Coccinella are not rushing to change much.
I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again. The Langhe area has some of the highest concentration of great dining in Europe. Other than the coast area between Getaria and San Sebastian in Basque country, I cant think of another embarrassment of riches as such. Whether you are staying in La Mora, Alba, Monforte d’Alba, or even up in Guarene and Priocca, you are just minutes away from amazing dining. Of course offering Piemonte cuisine which is arguably Italy’s best, and some of the most versatile and robust wine in the world helps.
The menus in all these restaurants dont differ a whole lot, which is why places that go outside the box like Trattoria La Coccinella stand out. Not that I mind being in this box. I love the box, and can eat Agnolotti del Plin, Battuta di Fassona, and Vitello Tonnato every day. We pretty much did that for 10 days last month, and got the doctor warnings to prove that. But it’s nice sometimes to bump into some seafood, or maybe an onion stuffed with chicken liver, a local specialty that isn’t nearly as mainstream as the rest.
Whether you actually like onions is irrelevant in this case. The onion is stuffed with delicious chicken liver, baked in salt, and the result is sublime. But just like the fondest memory was an onion last time, this time it will be the Tagliatelle with mushrooms. It was unlike any mushroom pasta I ever had. More like a superb, meaty mushroom ragu. Even chief mushroom hater Mrs Z admired this one.
Just a couple of truffle dishes this time. Gnocchi with butter and a poached egg. Terrific even on their own. We got a little unlucky with the timing of the truffle season this time, as white truffle peak was a few weeks away due to excessive rain. Even our lunch with a truffle hunter was entirely black truffles. But we got very lucky with the mushrooms.
We ended with a mixed seafood grill that included succulent Sicilian red shrimp among other goodies. One of many dishes that showcases the chef’s range. And one of the only restaurants in the area offering a seafood menu. In addition you have a regular/classic menu, and a truffle menu when in season. Mixing the dishes from the various menus is allowed of course.
Driving to and from Serravalle Langhe is an event in itself. Especially if you arrive from the north or west, you’ll encounter some of the most stunning scenery in the country. Hence I suggest lunch, combined with a visit to Monforte d’Alba. Go!
Eating With Ziggy 