Once you cross the bridge into the colorful Triana neighborhood in Seville, you will find yourself glaring at the scene of Calle San Jacinto, before joining the scene. Close the street to car and horse traffic and you get a party. Yes, in Seville you need to also keep in mind horses, especially during the April Feria. That means declaring a designated horse poop spotter that leads the pack and warns the rest of the group. Preferably the one that had the least Tinto de Veranos for lunch. It’s V E R A N O! If you are Italophiles like us, you will struggle with the name big time.
Once you reach the end of the pedestrian area, continue walking one more block. I know, I know, youve already seen three churches today, a Game of Thrones site (Alcázar), walked 15 miles, and want to settle at one of the inviting joints on the Calle for another Tinto de Varena. But keep going. Deliciousness awaits.
Blanca Paloma, the restaurant, not the singer, is a Triana institution. Its the only restaurant I encountered in Seville that takes reservations that I couldn’t make. Even my hotel, the excellent El Rey Moro had difficulties getting someone to pick up the phone. But dont despair. Most just show up. And if you show up when they open for lunch or dinner, you can snag a table inside or out.
We were the first team to arrive (Amazing Race fans here) prior to opening. BTW, you can pretty much forget what Google tells you about opening times in Spain. Its more like a probability. Some places can open at that time, but with the kitchen actually opening 30-60 minutes later. Meaning you can just hang out and have a Tinto de Verona. But Blanca Paloma and its kitchen opened as promised at the American lunch time of 12:30. The locals eat lunch after 2pm, and dinner after 9pm. We gave it a shot, but gave up on day one.
Prior to my visit, I got a sense that anything and everything shrimp is the name of the game at BP, and I’m more convinced now. But I’m guessing you cant have many wrongs here no matter what you get. Eggplant stuffed with shrimp – Si please. Probably our top eggplant dish in eggplant loving Andalucia. Mini garlic shrimp burgers, immensely flavorful. And then you get the phenomenal Shrimp a la Plancha that I saw many eating all over Calle San Jacinto.
Crab Croquetas was yet more awesomeness. Unlike other Croquetas we had, there was flavor and texture here. One of the surprising items we’ve seen on various menus is Canelones, like the Spanish Cannelloni. This one stuffed with Iberian pork and Roquefort sauce. Exquisite stuff. The only thing that was average here was the cakes. They ran out of Torrija before opening somehow! Maybe one of the cooks had a tough breakup last night. South of Spain rule of thumb: Order Torrija and/or cheesecake for dessert everywhere.
Blanca Paloma also served one of the better Vermouths of the trip. After trying the Spanish stand-alone Vermouth at Txikito in NYC, I was worried that its not really for me, but throughout my trip I couldnt get enough of it.
After the meal, make sure to check out the market and some of the tile stores around the area. Like Ceramica Triana, and Ceramica Santas Justa y Rufina where the friendly owner speaks excellent English, and lets you break things!
Eating With Ziggy 