Reason #157 to visit Sunset Park in Brooklyn, arguably one of the top five food neighborhoods in the entire city. Also happens to be another reason why you dont see me write about Queens much. I’ve written more about Spain, Portugal, even Quebec City than the foodie haven borough of Queens. Location, traffic makes it easier for me to visit Philly than Queens. And the many gems of Sunset Park makes that decision easier. Even when we finally commit to head over to Queens like yesterday, we somehow end up in Sunset Park.
Those that took my Brooklyn food tour (RIP) remember this part of Brooklyn well. Whether its the best egg tart in the city where they know me by the last 4 digits of my number, like a prisoner. The scene and flavors of the food court of Fei Long Market. Or Bamboo Garden, possibly the most authentic and popular Dim Sum Palace in NYC, standing in place of the disco from Saturday Night Fever.
During the SNV days, this Chinatown didnt exist. Today its the fasters growing and largest Chinatown in the city, probably north America. In the 80’s, Cantonese speakers from overcrowded and gentrified Manhattan Chinatown started moving to Brooklyn, followed by immigrants from Fujian. Rumors were circulating that 8th ave in Brooklyn is the real “road to wealth”. 8 of course is a lucky number in Chinese culture.
A thriving Chinatown also means a healthy Malaysian food scene, and all three NYC Chinatowns have that. Hainan Chicken House opened by Malaysian New Yorkers in 2023, and fairly quick fame followed. The team didnt realize that a certain neighborhood regular visiting the place was actually Pete Wells. Two NYT stars, and a spot on the NYT top 100 later, and I’m munching on the same spicy noodles for the third time, surrounded by white dudes.
After nibbling on the same dish in previous visits, I finally came back with friends for a proper meal. That said dish, Char Kway Teow is a noodle masterpiece. A gorgeous concoction of egg noodles, shrimp, clams, squid, bean sprouts and more, stir-fried to perfection. Its the Malyasian answer to the Thai Pad Kee Mao (Drunken Noodles).
The specialty of the house, Hainan Chicken Rice is served hawker street food style wrapped in paper. We opted for the roasted chicken. While not my favorite dish here, every visitor should try this at least once. Worst case scenario, you’ll suffer along with a well seasoned rice, and a Ménage à trois of three distinct sauces.
The table issued no complaints about the curry puffs, or chicken Satay skewers served with a sublime spicy peanut sauce. But our favorite discovery this time was the Char Siu, a marvelous, well executed roasted pork belly. You’ll be hard pressed to find better pork belly texture/flavor combination. Just the proper thickness and none of that softness you get sometimes in Thai places. Go!
Hainan Chicken House
4807 8th Ave (Brooklyn)
Recommended Dishes: Char Kway Teow, Pork Belly, Curry Puffs, Chicken Satay
Eating With Ziggy 