Shrimp a la Plancha at Blanca Paloma (Seville) – There are plenty of reasons to visit the colorful Triana neighborhood in Sevilla. Ceramics, the market, the scene on Calle San Jacinto, and the many notable restaurants. Speaking of the Calle, you may even see locals munching on the same beautiful Shrimp I recommend trying at the awesome Blanca Paloma.
Cheese and cured meats at Bar Casa Morales (Seville) – A time warp, entertaining locals and now tourists since 1850, and still owned by the same family. Keeping it mostly simple with classics like the fine Tortilla, and Galician Octopus. But after sampling cold cuts all over the city up to that point, this high grade selection was particularly eyepopping.
Egg with mushrooms at Amara (Seville) – I couldnt get enough of the egg dishes in Andalucia. Mostly the egg and potato variety. Not surprisingly, a Basque inspired 65 degrees egg with mushrooms, and truffles, part of a €48 tasting menu won the egg crown. Chef/Owner Javier Fabo grew up in the Amara neighborhood in San Sebastián, and trained at French Laundry, Gordon Ramsey, and other notables. So doh!
Carillera at Bodeguita Romero (Seville) – You have two options here. Come when this local legend opens, or face the consequences of waiting an hour or more. Either way, dont make the mistake we almost did and leave. People come for the Pringa (Pork Sandwich), but everything else was just as good if not better. I could have very easily put the Salmorejo (like a tomato soup) or the expertly cooked whole grilled squid here. But the ultra tender Carillera (pork cheek) stood out.
Puntillitas at Eslava (Seville) – This is another one of those local legends. You will witness a crowd in and out at all times. People go after some of the award winner like the egg, the must try “Cigar” and honey ribs. But for us it was the succulent, if not addictive Puntillitas (fried baby squid) that stole the show.
Cheesecake at Castizo tapas bar (Seville) – Easy rule of thumb in the region. If you see Torrijas (like French Toast) or cheesecake on the menu, pounce. Even if you are from NYC. We’ve had a number of wonderful cheesecakes all over the region, but this creamy goodness at Castizo won the cake. See what I did there?
Octopus with fried pig ears at Garum 2.1 (Cordoba) – After a shaky start in Cordoba we got quite the treat at the exceptional Garum 2.1, partly thanks to a rare breed waiter. But the food did much of the talking, or singing really in the case of the Octopus with fried pig ears over the creamiest potato purée this side of Lyon. Baby angels singing to be exact.
Cogollos Ajillo at Bar los Romerillos (Cordoba) – Researching food in travel is almost pointless. Just follow the menus. You may discover all sorts of surprises that never came up in your research. Case in point, Cogollos Ajillo, lettuce topped with fried garlic or garlic sauce. At this very local diner-like joint on the other side of the Roman bridge, its one of the specialties.
Chicken Croquetitas at MangasVerdes (Jaen) – Tiny Jaen has no shortage of good food, even Michelin stars. I was worried when the place was empty at 1:30pm. But then I remembered we are in Spain. Standing room only by 2:30. Fantastic, Asian inspired playful fair, especially the explosive Chicken Croquetitas that arrived like a dozen eggs with a super complimentary curry sauce.
Squid ink rice with Octopus at El Trillo (Granada) – The Alhambra is always the center of attention in Granada, and you cant legally leave without a meal at a “Carmen” house overlooking her majesty. At El Trillo, you have that option on the terrace, along with a cozy garden. And the food is not too shabby, especially the seafood. I’m a sucker for good squid ink dishes and this one with grade A ingredients was as good as they get.
Jamon at Oliver (Granada) – While not a flawless meal, this Bourdain approved legend produced plenty of hits. Refreshing tomato with burrata and pesto, grilled squid were some of the winners. But the quality best of the trip Jamon was a revelation. Seemingly popular with locals and tourists, so reservations strongly recommended.
Tapas at Bodegas Ramos-Paul (Ronda) – Tiny Ronda has three mentions here, more than any large city except Seville. This is not a restaurant but a winery just north of town. A stunning property, surrounded by scenery rivaled by Tuscany and very few others. Affordable, delicious robust reds because this is not Rioja fame. Munching on well selected cheese and cured meats in that setting is magical. Thats why you stay in Ronda for longer than one night.
Chickpeas with Chorizo at El Lechuguita (Ronda) – People should come to Ronda just to experience this place. Try arriving before opening to get a spot on line, and head straight to the bar as soon they open. Not only the decor hasnt changed much during the last 50 years, but prices as well. An extensive menu with most tapas costing €1.2!! And quality stuff like the Shrimp skewers, Pate, eggs, and the best of show, spiced to perfection Chickpeas with Chorizo. The best value we’ve encountered in all our travels.
Chicken with Fideos at Casa Mateos (Ronda) – Everything we ate in Ronda followed by “one of the best of the trip” talk, and Casa Mateos was possibly the best meal. A flawless meal that got better with each course. The outrageous Chicken with Fideos was a highlight. Which is saying a lot considering the other main was perfectly cooked beef.
Mollete de Atún at La Cosmopolita (Malaga) – Calling this a sandwich feels very wrong. Mollete translates to muffin (like English Muffin I suppose), but its actually IGP protected buns from Antequera, a town nearby. The Mollete de Atún at Dani Carnero’s La Cosmopolita is a well crafted raw tuna sandwich. Poke sandwich if you will, except that every ingredient is top notch and the whole combination is fantastic.
Eating With Ziggy 