New York City

Ocean View Cafe – Veselka Without the Hoopla

Posted on January 5, 2025 by Ziggy

Starting 2025 with a lazy one. Blogging is kinda like sex. The more you do it, the better it gets, until you get to the age where the more you do it, the worse it gets (I heard). Hormones often dictate how often we blog and the quality of the posts. Am I in the mood to write a short post about Carnitas Ramirez (spoiler alert: Best tacos in Manhattan, maybe in NYC), another large(ish) post on Piedmont, or just binge-watch Yellowstone. On this lazy Sunday, I have a compromise. A post/reblog.

Ocean View Cafe is like some of these misleading Aruba hotel ads. Is it really ocean view, or even partial ocean view? The cafe is close, but quite far from the ocean. It’s more like Babushka and elevated train tracks view. I never bothered to ask any of the workers or the owner why its called as such in the decades that I’ve gone there. To be honest, I usually keep my conversations to the minimum (“two bags of frozen Pelmeni please”), and I never actually had a conversation with the owner. I’ve also never seen him smile or even talk to anyone. A “made man”?

Maybe we should ask Nicholas Cage. He is more intimately familiar with Ocean View Cafe since filming Lord of War there. You still see his pictures on one side of the wall, although I recall pictures on the other side as well at some point. Nicholas Cage Cafe would have been more appropriate than Ocean View.

Other than less Cage pictures, not much has changed in all these decades other than the neighborhood itself. Brighton Beach is less Russian, and more Uzbek, Georgian, Armenian, etc. Ocean View is one of the last of the true Russian/Ukrainian diners, although I dont recall ever a place quite like it in Brighton Beach. Its Veselka without the hoopla and lines.

After attending the annual Jan 1st Polar Bear Plunge in Coney Island, Borscht and Pelmeni at Ocean View Cafe felt like the obvious choice. Well, more like Borscht for them, Kharcho (The Georgian better tasting cousin) for me. Although, this is just about the only place on the planet where I’d have Borscht. This time we also tried a fine Chicken Tabaka, another Georgian classic. A slow cooked crispy, juicy, butterflied chicken. Along with potato Pierogies/Varenikiy, and fried potatoes with mushrooms.

Ok, enough with the blogging. Here’s a reblog of one of my favorite NYC posts. Back to Yellowstone and Hockey…

A Day in Brighton Beach
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Leon’s – Fortune Favors the Brave

Posted on December 25, 2024 by Ziggy

Being a food enthusiast while living in the ‘burbs in NYC is a major handicap. There are very few places I can think of, like Chuan Tian Xia in Sunset Park that I frequent about once a year, and that is as regular as it gets for us. There’s a restaurant in Turks and Caicos that we visit more often than 99% of our favorites back at home. Our appreciation of a large number of cuisines, and craving for the new and exciting is largely responsible. The list of places I want to try just about doubles every year.

That’s why it feels strange visiting places I truly admire like Foxface Natural, Werkstatt, Pig & Khao, Pure Thai Cookhouse and so many others without a doctor’s note explaining my absence. Freak paragliding accident in Switzerland. Chest contusion while rescuing baby elephants in Chiang Mai. I can generate a list for each place.

One way to fix this and get my immediate attention is for one of the chefs I admire to open a new place. One month old Leon’s is the latest from Anton’s “mom & pop”, Natalie Johnson and Nick Anderer. According to EWZ historians, Anderer’s name has been mentioned here 10 times between Maialino, Marta, Martina, and Anton’s. That means an obvious exception to the rule of waiting at least a year before trying a new place. I gave the dude a month.

If Leon’s feels like a place that’s been a year in the making, it’s because it was. “Mom and pop” second acts usually dont exist, not to mention as ambitious as this. Sprawling, high ceiling, and smack in the middle of it all on Broadway near Union Square. Technically just outside of East Village, though for the purpose of this blog its in East Village. I realize there’s no “Greenwich Village” category here and changing category names on WordPress is as complicated as rent negotiations. Rarely something interesting opens in the village that’s not in west or east.

Everything about Leon’s is daring. The space has been abandoned for many years. It’s open all day including breakfast. Even the name is gutsy. NYC has almost as many businesses named Leon’s as Ray’s Pizza. The menu is somewhat of a gamble as well, but if anyone can pull this off, its this team. Italian by nature with an Egyptian and French twist. Egyptian, to honor Natalie’s heritage. French, to honor Anderer showing off!

We started with some of the best cold cuts I’ve had in NYC in recent memory. A sweet and aromatic Bresaola with a very pleasant aftertaste. A more delicate, fatty, peppery, not quite Mortadella, Salame Rosa from Berkeley. Try them without the bread first for the full experience. A free Focaccia with quality EVOO. Almost a rarity in NYC these days.

A couple of items where we played my favorite new game, “Guess the Falafel”. The answer is the balls sitting on Tehini sauce of course, but even that may not be real Falafel according to purists. Its the Egyptian version which means Fava Beans instead of Chickpeas. While it may not convert the purists, it’s delicious. With that said, the light, airy Eggplant Boulettes with the creamy tomato sauce is the clear winner in this Schweddy Balls contest.

Another winner is the silky smooth Tuna Carpaccio with capers and fried shallots. Although, I cant help but wonder what it will taste like with a hint or two of pink peppercorns and less oil. This is off the “Mare” section of the Antipasti which sent me back to the coasts of Puglia.

Choosing pastas at an Anderer establishment is like choosing between your children. At the moment its the oldest since she calls more often, and for that reason I chose the Busiate. Pretty much what you expect, a simple but satisfying tomatoee Pistou Rouge with Almonds. Trapanese with a French touch. Fettuccine with Bolognese al Pastore was a lesson in proper ragu. Meaty, rich goodness that left us debating whether to get more bread to properly Scrarpetta that thing.

There’s also a Pasta con le Sarde on the menu, a rare Sicilian classic. Sicily is the one region with a big Arab influence, hence represented at Leon’s. There’s also Spaghetti with Madagascar Cacio e Pepe. If you havent smelled Madagascar peppercorns, you havent lived life to the fullest. Another dish I’d like to try soon is the Brick Chicken Baharat. If you havent tried Anderer’s chickens at Maialino, Marta, and Anton’s, you havent, well, you know. Go!

Leon’s
817 Broadway (E 12th)
Recommended Dishes: Salame Rosa, Bresaola, Eggplant Boulettes, Tuna Carpaccio, Busiate, Fettuccine Bolognese al Pastore

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Bar Bête – Stupid Good!

Posted on December 10, 2024 by Ziggy

Smith Street in Carroll Gardens is the gift that keeps on giving… and taking, as of late. Z-List darling FOB Filipino just closed and Ugly Baby is closing at the end of the year. While old and new like Avlee Greek Kitchen, Mama Capri, the excellent Rua Thai, and Bar Bête still making sure its one of Brooklyn’s best food streets. And shops like Smith & Vine and its selection of Vermouth and other goodies make it more worthwhile. We pay hefty tolls for the pleasure of visiting Smith Street.

Bar Bête is probably the most important addition on Smith in recent years. Ugly Baby, FOB may have started the cute name trend. Bête is slang for silly, or stupid. As in “Qu’est-ce qu’il est bête!” – How stupid he is! Hence, the title of the post. But its fitting in more ways than one. It is unequivocally stupid good. I usually find things to complain about. Not much luck here.

Thankfully we were told from the start of the meal that the food is for sharing. I was just about to order a full plate of curried cashews all for myself. Maybe the reason they keep telling us this is because we are usually the oldest people in the room (And I’m only in my late 40’s. 54 to be exact). “Is this your first time here” isnt very different than “Are you new to dining out” in places with menus and concept not wildly different than the rest. Not a complaint. Just an observation.

Bar Bête is a casual corner Bistro that happens to be literally on a corner. Its casual, but fancy enough to wear your new Untuckit shirt you got for the holidays. Its listed as “French” but to me its more like “New American” utilizing French techniques. The chef has extensive experience in high end dining in Vegas, Toronto and elsewhere. As as far as what we tried, a rare moment where I recommend every single dish. In fact, I wouldnt mind coming back without trying anything new.

Bar Bete

Started with a bang. Very few items can be as satisfying as a well executed, buttery Chicken liver Parfait. This one, with pistachios and spiced pear jam is as good as we’ve had in a long time. More awesomeness followed in the form of a Tuna Toast, one of the most popular items on the menu. A layer of fermented chili & garlic chive spread really elevates this.

The Duck Fat Potatoes is viewed by many, including the Infatuation, as the best thing on the menu. That honor should probably go to the Duck instead. The potatoes is really just an excellent side. Imagine a solid Patatas Bravas, except the pieces are bigger so meatier. The Hummus lookalike that comes with it is a fine garlic aioli. The Ricotta Gnudi is another standout. A common theme throughout the meal is balanced, deep flavors partially from the good use of chili.

The Caramelized Duck Breast is a dish we are still talking about three days later. Not only because it was the top dish, but also because we are still trying to figure out how I failed taking a picture of it. The picture I took just didnt develop somehow. The duck itself was cooked and spiced perfectly, but what really made the dish is the extremely aromatic smoky bed of cabbage.

The Yellow Cake with the chocolate frosting tastes exactly how you’d expect. A satisfying finish, but I suppose this is the only dish I’d consider skipping next time, in favor of the Creme Brulee. Try both. Only three cocktails on the menu was perfectly fine with us, and two of them quite good. Wine menu very French leaning as expected. Already looking forward coming back. Go!

Bar Bête
263 Smith St (Degraw, Carroll Gardens)
Recommended Dishes: Chicken liver Parfait, Tuna Toast, Duck Fat Potatoes, Gnudi, Caramelized Duck Breast, Yellow Cake

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Chi Restaurant & Bar – Devilish Heat in Hell’s Kitchen

Posted on November 16, 2024 by Ziggy

Extremely large menus, showy instagrammable dishes, multiple truffle dishes is generally a turnoff for me when it comes to Chinese food. Avoid, avoid, avoid. In Hell’s Kitchen especially, the best food is so often found in unassuming places that dont welcome you with chandeliers and mini skirts. This is why it took me over a year to finally try this buzzy Chinese. Besides, just about all my favorite unassuming places in HK are now closed (enter winking, tongue out, wacky emoji).

But sometimes you just have to trust the reviews, and go with your gut. After staring at Chi pictures for longer than I’d like to admit, my gut told me, try it. Maybe I should treat food research just like food supplements and medicine. Consume with food. Best time to go food shopping is on a full stomach, they say. That didnt help me at Costco yesterday. I had no idea I was into Biscotti bigger than my head. How do I even dip this monster.

Simply put, Chi is terrific, and I was wrong to question it. In fact, its some of the best Chinese I’ve had in Hell’s Kitchen in years. The menu reads as if they had a meeting, and the person in charge said yes to every single suggestion. Soup dumplings? Yes! How about other Dim Sum items? Why not, in fact lets have a section. How about some Szechuan? Hmm, its tough to choose, lets do all of them including seafood. Ooh, how about pork belly presented like a pyramid. YAS!!!!! Oh, you may not like this one but how about some American dishes like Chicken with Broccoli. Duh! Its America, lets have another section including two different General Tso’s for good measure.

The space is attractive, comfortable, and the prices are fair. Friendly, spot-on service with one noteworthy feature, important to me. When it was time to pay, the waitress whipped the machine from her pocket, informed me of the cost, and we settled on the spot. Something very common in Europe, but not so much in the US. One of my biggest pet peeves is when they finally give me the check after begging for it for 20 minutes, they assume I need another 20 minutes to examine the three items on it.

As for the food, not a dud in the house. Every visit should start with their Cucumber salad. Doesnt sound exciting, but trust uncle Ziggy. It’s chunkier than the typical, and it comes with the kind of vinegar you’ll want to drink like a smoothy. Being a decent size, it may last throughout the entire meal, and with all the heat that will follow, you’ll appreciate it. It went well with everything we ate.

Another thing you’ll appreciate is the Dan Dan Noodles. The theme at Chi is not being shy with the ingredients. Nothing is dull, and nothing overpowering. The peanut and chili here pop just enough. Eggplant with garlic sauce was pretty much what you expect from a place like this. Again, big flavors. The only issue was that it needed some time to cool off. 20 minutes later it still hurt so good.

Similar story with the Chongquing Spicy Chicken. Unlike others we had lately, plenty of Mala, pleasant heat, and the chicken is properly cut, bone-in. Sometimes they cut them too small and all you taste is Mala. For nostalgic reasons we felt like trying one of the General Tso’s, “Lao-Gan-Ma General Tso’s”. Nicely cooked, spicier than usual. Just wish the balls were a little smaller. Go!

Chi Restaurant & Bar
492 9th Ave (37th, Hell’s Kitchen)
Recommended Dishes: Cucumber salad, Dan Dan Noodles, Eggplant with garlic sauce, Chongquing Spicy Chicken, Lao-Gan-Ma General Tso’s

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Ginger and Lemongrass – Pig and Khao Light

Posted on November 7, 2024 by Ziggy

Yes, I hate the title too. A successful Southeast Asian restaurant owned by a woman from, you guessed it, Prague, offering some of the best and boldest soups in the business, among other deliciousness. And this no name blogger calls it P&K light. The nerve. The menu doesnt even resemble P&K. In fact I cant think of one dish they have in common. So why does it feel like P&K light so much.

The story, the location, the cuisine. Similarly to Leah Cohen, Petra Rickman also spent significant time in Southeast Asia learning the craft of cooking. They both own two Southeast Asian restaurants (Rickman recently opened a Mexican place called Taco Azul). Rickman’s Manhattan restaurant and Cohen’s flagship are very close to each other. Plenty of similarities, with Leah Cohen being much more famous, and P&K more daring and elevated, hence “Light”

That’s not to say Ginger and Lemongrass is a lesser version of Pig and Khao. The two are still very different. Ginger and Lemongrass is more accessible, offering an ambitious, yet simple menu, with a killer soup lineup. Just about everything I had at Ginger and Lemongrass over the years was executed well, especially one particular soup.

In the early days, when G&L opened 6 years ago, to me it was a great place to go for soup. A comfortable place you go to clean your sinuses when its freezing outside. I quickly settled on the Spicy Coconut Lemongrass soup that fits my taste like the 10 year old shoes you only wear when no one is around because it has giant holes. It has just the kind of balance you look for in a spicy Asian soup. Get it with Five Spice Beef Brisket or chicken.

It feels like G&L has become more well rounded over the years. Many reviewers rave about the spring and summer rolls but its something I rarely order anywhere. The wings here are serviceable. Could have been more tender and juicy, but the sweet and spicy sauce make up for much of it.

In addition to a whole lineup of rolls, sandwiches, salads, they now have Thai style curries of all colors with your choice of protein. The green curry is a little thicker than the typical Thai curry, but the flavor is spot on. But my favorite discovery last time was the Shaken Beef (Bo luc lac). I order Bo luc lac pretty much wherever I see it in Vietnamese places, and this is a good version. Nice and complex with that pepper lime dressing, onions, and potatoes. Even the rice they serve with the dishes is delicious.

The Thai Iced Tea here will get you hooked from the start but it’s a bit heavy with the condensed milk. Overall, light or not, Ginger and Lemongrass is a solid choice for lunch, dinner, first date, Bar Mitsvah, and post election blues. Go!

Ginger and Lemongrass
153 Rivington St (Lower East Side)
Recommended Dishes: Wings, Spicy Coconut Lemongrass soup, Shaken Beef, Green curry

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What’s Wrong with the NYT Best Pizza List? Everything.

Posted on October 31, 2024 by Ziggy

Ok, not everything. But enough for me to pause the Piedmont posts to reflect on an issue near and dear to my heart. Other than the Yankees blowing a big lead to lose the World Series, there’s nothing that can rile up the natives more than another pizza list. Especially when it comes from the NYT. But as with any pizza list there are some good things (cause its pizza), so I’ll start with that…

First, the link. I like the transparency. I like that the story starts with “The reporters for this story visited 50 pizzerias across all five boroughs.” I like that the reporters are active in the comments section, being humble and all.

I do like some of the mentions of newer places like L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele, and Ungaro Coal Fired Pizza Cafe in Staten Island. Da Michele especially feels fresh even for a Neapolitan. Although, why include a picture of someone using a knife and fork. We usually get the pies at Da Michele sliced, and we eat them with our hands. Its New York, not mayor de Blasio house.

Moving on to the issues…

While I appreciate the transparency, we have over 2000 pizzerias. NYC is the pizza capital of the world. Coming up with a list of 25, after eating at 50 places just wont cut it for “Best Pizza in NYC” list. And besides, in NYC, figuring out the best pizza is like trying to figure out the most active squirrels in Central Park.

Some individual inclusions and exclusions

Joe and Pats – Listing the overrated East Village location instead of the institution in Staten Island feels very wrong, strange and most importantly very wrong. Its like listing Di Fara Pizza on South St instead of the iconic Midwood. I understand its an expensive bridge even for the NYT, but Staten Island is one of our most important pizza boroughs.

Denino’s – Speaking of Staten Island, this is one of the more overrated places on the island. Old doesn’t always mean great.

L&B Spumani – Seriously, did they just forget to take a picture of the Sicilian? Maybe they never tasted it, or contractually obligated to include that pup? The Sicilian is their claim to fame.

Scarr’s – Ever since they moved to the bigger space across the street, they’ve gone downhill. It used to be my favorite slice in NYC but now its really no better than an average slice, and pretty much strictly for tourists.

Lucia of Ave X – I’m ok with this inclusion. In fact its one of my favorites. In fact I just had it yesterday! But this also highlights the challenges of a best pizza list in NYC. Its nothing more than a solid neighborhood joint where you can get a good slice that’s convenient to me. We have hundreds of these. And at least a hundred like Sacco in Hell’s Kitchen, Best Pizza in Williamsburg, Nonna’s in Great Kills, Lo Duca in Flatbush are excellent. Lucia, Joe’s, and the rest of them are simply more famous either due to age or marketing.

Other exclusions are more puzzling.

No Song e Napule? This might be the best we have. Its pizza perfection.

No Lucali’s? The author admits in the comments that the hassle was not worth it. But at the end of the day it’s still a best pizza list, not the most accessible pizza list.

No Una Pizza Napoletana? Widely considered by pizza experts one of the best pizzas in America, not just NYC, and the top in the world by the respected https://www.50toppizza.it/. Strange omission.

No Keste, Don Antonio? I can go on and on. But I guess you cant include them all, and a mix of types is important. Although more emphasis should be made for Neapolitan which is awesome in NYC at the moment.

No Di Fara?!? Ok, I actually agree with this.

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Spice Brothers – Latest From the Spice Master

Posted on October 11, 2024 by Ziggy

I keep passing by La Boite deep in the boondocks of Hell’s Kitchen, looking at the front window, searching for any signs of life. The spice blend store used by many chefs around the city (like myself!) has been closed for about a year now. I know, I know, I can buy them online, but the ability to smell them online hasnt made it to the US. Maybe Silicon Valley is working on it, but I’m not ready to spend thousands on VR headsets that will allow me to smell Sumac.

La Boite is owned by Lior Lev Sercarz, an author, and classically trained chef with an extensive Michelin resume. But unlike many Michelin graduates, instead of opening restaurants, Lior took a totally different path. High quality spice blending. Chefs around the world, like Eric Ripert collaborated with Sercarz to produce spice blends, and I cant quite think of any such spice source in the city. The excellent SOS Chefs in East Village comes to mind, but thats for pure spices, especially of the rare kind.

Last September Sercarz opened Spice Brothers with David Malbequi, a fellow Boulud alum, in East Village. Still, not a full service restaurant, but a fast casual Middle Eastern offering high quality Shawarma, Sabich, Hummus and other goodies. All obviously using La Boite spice blends. So expect your fries for example to be far from ordinary. Thicker “Steak Fries” wedges dusted with one of my favorite La Boite blends, Shabazi (cilantro, chili, garlic, lemon).

You dont get much of a say as to what goes inside your Shawarma, which I actually like. But at the same time I havent tried to change anything so I may be spreading misinformation. You just have to choose between Shawarma West (Chicken) and East (Beef and Lamb). Both are spiced accordingly of course, and come loaded with fresh veggies, herbs, Tehina and the Amba, the sharp Mango condiment that goes really well with Shawarma. Though the best condiment may be their homemade Harissa that comes inside the West Shawarma, and better yet as a side with the order of the fries.

Sabich is one of the only vegetarian sandwiches I eat reguarly, and its another winner at Spice Brothers. Fried eggplant, hard boiled eggs, and of course more Tehina and Amba. The falafel is good, but closer to the typical herb heavy falafel, except that its on another crisp level. I didnt try the Hummus yet, nor the lone dessert. In East Village, the dessert options are stupendous these days.

You got your usual options of bowl, Laffa and more. I’d go for the Pita over Laffa here. They can easily divide both. Every sauce like the excellent Z’hug can be ordered for $1. Regulars on EWZ are well too familiar with my love for Z’hug. Its guaranteed to make anything taste better. But everything at Spice Brothers is worth a try. Besides finding yourself at one of the coolest streets in NYC. Go!

Spice Brothers
110 St Marks Pl (1st/A, East Village)
Recommended Dishes: Chicken Shawarma, Falafel, Sabich, Fries

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Balaboosta – Oldie Still Goodie

Posted on October 5, 2024 by Ziggy

Balaboosta is an old Yiddish term for the perfect housewife. A domestically gifted mother that feeds the family with one hand, balances house finances with the other, while teaching Krav Maga in her spare time between writing cookbooks. Balaboosta’s children call her twice a day. They would prefer to call more but her busy schedule especially on book signing days make it difficult. That’s the meaning behind the name of a West Village institution led by one of those fearless women.

If you’ve been following me for at least 7 years you’d probably know about my on and off love affair with this housewife. I was a fan until I started cheating on her with her younger, sexier sister, Bar Bolonat. In 2017 I even wrote that the old Balaboosta needed a boosta shot. Less than a year later it happened in a way no one anticipated (in true Balaboosta fashion). Balaboosta closed and merged with Bar Bolonat in Bolonat’s location, keeping the flagship name. Six years later, Balaboosta feels as fresh as ever.

Owner Einat Admony is one of America’s most celebrated Israeli chefs. Between the Taim chain that quietly opened 13 location on the east coast, the restaurants, and cookbooks, her resume is worthy of a Chef’s Table episode. Her daring ways can even be a little too much for New Yorkers after experimenting with the couscous-focused Kish-Kash for a few years. Super high rents make these experiments exactly that.

Needless to say our family (+1) meal in Balaboosta recently was the best meal we ever had in an Admony establishment. Balaboosta today is like Admony’s greatest hits, starting with the ole reliable Hummus, and ending with the sick Tahini Crème Brulée with shredded Halvah. Halvah is one of my many weaknesses. When my Halvah inventory is low at home, everyone around me suffers but no one knows why.

Eggplant with “Asian Tahini”, togarashi, crispy shallots and just enough pleasant heat from the pomegranate harissa is one of many dishes that showcase Admony’s range. There are even Yemenite Soup Dumplings on the menu (FYI, NYC’s first ever soup dumplings festival is tomorrow). Perfectly spiced and herbed beef kebabs is another one of her signatures. Children books have been written about these Kebabs.

The old Balaboosta classic, the Brick Chicken is still solid, but can get lost in the shuffle. Getting chicken as such isnt very hard anymore. But getting a super slow cooked short rib with Lachuch, the Yemeni Injera-like pancake, with tahina and their green S’chug (Yememi hot sauce/spread) is virtually impossible. With that spongy Lachuch, jus, and sauces, you can make the best tacos you’ll ever eat.

No issues whatsoever with the superbly juicy special Brisket, or the crispy saffroned Tahdig rice we couldnt get enough of. Even with the basic bread pudding special (get the Crème Brulée), there was not a bad dish in the house. Just better dishes. And if you are a fellow admirer of Sauvignon Blanc, try the 2022 Cheverny Domaine du Salvard. Go!

Balaboosta
611 Hudson St (West Village)
Recommended Dishes: Hummus, Eggplant, Kebabs, Short Rib, Crème Brulée

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Tia Pol – Just Basque a Move

Posted on September 23, 2024 by Ziggy

After recently exploring the south of Spain, and trying a few more “Tapas” joints in the city, I still think Tia Pol is the closest we have to an authentic Tapas bar in NYC.  The food at places like Salinas and Txikito might be more refined, but their environment, accessibility and prices makes them far removed from Spain, no matter how authentic their menu looks.  The worst experience you can have in Andalucia or elsewhere in Spain is at a place that looks and feels like NYC.  Ok, maybe not the worst but you get my point.

Tia Pol has that old fashioned rustic feel, easy to reserve or pop in at just about any time.  A menu full of Tapas classics with correct prices, and a fantastic drink menu to boot.  In fact I much preferred my Vermouth from Jerez I had last night at Tia Pol than the Vermouth I had at the more polished Txikito.  Tia Pol has that look and feel.

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Olle – Not Just Another Korean

Posted on September 11, 2024 by Ziggy

In LA a few weeks ago, a Korean called Hungry Crowd near our hotel in Burbank was just what the doctor ordered after a long drive from Napa. While munching on their Bibimbap I realized that it’s not only the first Bibimbap I’ve had in ages, but I havent even seen it on a menu in years. My last one may have been at Danji in Hell’s Kitchen (still temporarily closed), about a decade ago. I regretted telling this to the waiter, who was very puzzled by the news.

In NYC pioneers like David Chang, Jungsik Yim, and Junghyun Park (Atomix, Atoboy) converted Korean cuisine into something we cant define. ‘New Korean’ if you will as coined by Jungsik. Tremendous competition pushes newbies to reinvent and differentiate. We now have multiple Cajun/Korean and the haute joints keep multiplying and having babies. Just like you will rarely see new Italian showcasing Cacio e Pepe or Carbonara, you rarely see new Korean offering Bibimbap these days.

Outside of the big city, even in the burbs here, Korean simply means BBQ. In the expending Koreatown in Manhattan, there’s no shortage of BBQ, but new places like Olle on 30th, keep pushing the envelope. Olle is another Jeju inspired (Jeju Noodle Bar) establishment, with somewhat of a concept. Stylish Korean comfort food centered around one dish, the Galbi Jjim.

As with many concept places all over the city, ordering at Olle requires a bit of homework. But no worries. Good ole’ uncle Ziggy is here to help with the process, although I probably understand about 85% of it. All you need to do is order the Galbi Jjim, select the two sides for $10 more, and anything else from the menu. With that you get an excellent Banchan set of around 8 that includes Kimchi, Daikan, Onions, Scallion Pancakes, marinated egg, wood-ear mushrooms, and rice. There was not one dish that I didnt want to more.

But the star is the Galbi Jjim itself. Braised short ribs with oyster mushrooms and other goodies that continues to cook table side. Good luck finding short ribs with greater depth and consistency. The only thing that was missing was more of the excellent mushrooms, but this dish is billed for two people, not four. The price is a whopping $70 (there’s also a small option for $60), but once you add the other parts, its not a bad value. Especially if you successfully share for four.

Out of the two sides, I was surprised at how much I liked one over the other. Bibim Naengmyeon, cold noodles with spicy sauce wasnt quite up to par with my taste. People rave about it all over social media, but I found the sauce too tangy for the delicate noodles and quickly got bored with it. The fried rice dish on the other hand produced at the end of the meal with the leftover Galbi Jjim was stellar. Although it does come with some confusion among the staff on how long we were supposed to cook it in order to have a decent amount of Socarrat. When its done on your table, you are like a kid driving to the Luna park with your parents. Are we there yet?

We also tried the Skate with Soy-Garlic sauce which was another winner. Not exactly new flavors but the combination is unique and works beautifully. Pork bone soup with potatoes, perilla leaves & seeds features a phenomenal tasting broth, but even though it came as advertised, picking the meat from the bones was a frustrating exercise. There were moments where we felt like hamsters being experimented on. Pretty sure the staff were taking notes.

They handed us the bill before I even attempted to find out if there’s dessert. I guess the answer is no. Out of the four, Mrs Z was the only one who didnt care much for the experience, but I suspect it was because she wasnt drinking. That decision meant only $50 pp final bill. All considering, refreshing in this part of the city. Olle is a Go!

Olle
11 E 30th St (5th/Madison)
Recommended Dishes: Galbi Jjim, Fried Rice, Skate, Pork bone soup

Categories: Gramercy, Flatiron, New York City | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

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