I have to make this one brief. Got much on the plate this week. I cant even take the time to think of a better title, but this one is pretty telling once you understand. Kjun is a tiny, and I mean tiny, hole in the wall with a big soul in Murray Hill. The owner is Jae Jung, born in Seoul, trained in NOLA, refined in NYC as her bio so cleverly puts it.
Jung’s resume is one of the most impressive I’ve seen (August, Herbstaint, and all sorts of Michelined NYC establishments), and so is her cooking that naturally morphed into a Korean/Cajun mashup. Hence the name, Kjun. This is her first solo project. While we dont have a shortage of of Korean (especially in that area), nor Cajun, or even NOLA inspired Korean (Haenyeo in Park slope), I cant think of anything remotely like Kjun.
From the starters the Boudin Balls and chicken liver pate were particularly strong. Four explosive Schweddy balls stuffed with starch noodles instead of rice. The buttery and immensely flavorful pate that no one talks about might be the unsung hero. Soy marinated deviled eggs were fine but not as memorable as others. Same for the Okra Kimchi that got boring even as a side. The forgettable stuff here are only that because of the unforgettable.
All the larger dishes were solid especially the Jambalaya featuring a nice cabbage Kimchi action and juicy mixed meat. Beautiful clean flavors that stay with you for a some time. The fried chicken was above average, though I wouldn’t go as far as calling it one of the best in town as Pete Wells did. It was nicely marinated but a bit on the greasy side and too large to work with on such small tables. Sharing it for three required some planning.
We also enjoyed the cheesy grits with Andouille. Quite sweet for Andouille but it worked. For dessert we much preferred the Dalgona Banana Foster over their version of pecan pie. Think a Banana Foster and Tiramisu love child. You also get a free delicious probiotic drink at the end, and a welcoming starter bite at the beginning to get the juices flowing. Everything about the place is quirky including the stools.
Just to emphasize and help visualize, Kjun is the size of a small coffee shop. Wells jokingly compared it to a van, but its really not much bigger than a U-haul truck. The three of us got a round table that would normally be reserved for one or two. But not only we managed, I dont get a sense from reading reviews that its much of a problem for others. Perhaps most understand that its a small price to pay, and its part of the charm. This one is a major Go!
Kjun
154 E 39th St (Murray Hill)
Recommended Dishes: Chicken liver pate, Boudin Balls, Jambalaya, Grits with Andouille, Banana Foster
Eating With Ziggy 