East Village

Best Restaurants in Manhattan

Posted on August 16, 2025 by Ziggy

Well, the people of Reddit have spoken, after putting together the Brooklyn picks. For Manhattan I grouped them instead of creating another map (Brooklyn is huge). And just like with Brooklyn, there are certain areas as you can see where I dont spend much time. UWS and UES are just too far, and not as interesting, while Midtown East and Times Square are hotel/tourist heavy, with minimal parking, and more suited for business lunches. Rarely anything interesting opens there.

I also think its time to retire the Z-List. I’ve been managing it for many years, and I’ve had many people commenting on how useful it is. But a list of 30 that covers a large area, no matter how often updated, can run its course. I know some rely on it, but I think its better to rely on its Brooklyn and Manhattan list replacements at this point. I will leave the Z-List up for a while to give people a chance to say goodbye 😉

I will update these lists often. This one is more or less from south to north, with the borders stretched on occasion to fit everyone…

Tribeca

Nish Nush – One of the best if not the best Falafels in the city for a few decades now.

Au Cheval – Go for the sick burger, stay for the Mac & Cheese.

LES / Chinatown

Ginger and Lemongrass – Pretty much for the spicy lemongrass soup.

Shu Jiao Fu Zhou – Hard to beat for a quick cheap dumplings and noodles.

Spicy Village – Slightly uncomfortable but exceptional Chinese. Try the dumplings and Big Tray of Chicken

Uncle Lou’s – Got a little too touristy lately but this is where I’d go for Cantonese right now

Katz’s Deli – The Pastrami Temple. Mega touristy for a reason

Corima – Affordable, superb creative Mexican

Nolita / Little Italy

Thai Diner – Super popular for a reason. Try to come at Off-peak hours

Wayan – Vongerichten Jr doing all kinds of Indonesian/French magic

19 Cleveland – Excellent all around Israeli

Tomiño Taberna Gallega – NYC’s best if not only pure Galician. Meaning get the Octopus

Figo il Gelato – Fig/Ricotta Gelato when fresh is hard to beat

Soho

Raoul’s – A celebrated old French Bistro.

San Carlo Osteria Piemonte – Almost does Italy’s top food region justice. Order from the Piemonte menu

Rivareno Gelato – I’m an ice cream junky and this is my favorite Gelato these days. Especially appreciate the northern flavors

Pinch Chinese – Outstanding elevated Chinese. A favorite since they opened pretty much

Greenwich Village

Anton’s – I follow certain chefs I admire, until they call the cops 😉 Nick Anderer (Mailino, Marta) did an amazing job curating a great menu at Anton’s. He’s now doing his magic at his second, Leon’s (great lunch so far). Love the brunches here too.

L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele – While not exactly the same as the Napoli original, a fancy pizzeria with a full menu

Jeju Noodle Bar – I preferred this Korean before the Michelin star, but its still outstanding

Balaboosta – The flagship of one of the most celebrated Israeli chefs.

Song’ e Napule – If I have to pick just one pizzeria

Leitao – Superb Portuguese. One of my favorite discoveries in the last few years

Via Carota – Possibly the most well rounded Italian we have. Popular for a reason

Dell’anima – Italian in West Village is having a moment. Just moved back after many years deep in Hell’s Kitchen. Exceptional pastas and chicken.

East Village

Foxface Natural (Temporarily closed) – From a tiny Sandwich shop to creative Michelin style dining.

Hearth – A reliable old timer and the creator of Brodo.

Fiaschetteria “Pistoia” – The closest we have to eating in a Tuscan village

Carnitas Ramirez – Possibly best tacos in NYC today.

Danny & Coop’s Cheesesteaks – Yes, worth the hype.

Spice Brothers – When a spice master opens a fast food Middle Eastern. Worth checking out

Nowon – Our go-to for a simple burger, rice cakes and more.

Claude – Josh Pinsky is another chef I follow for a while, from the Momofuku days in this case.

Flatiron / Gramercy

L’Express – One of the most reliable Brasseries in the city, aging like a fine Bordeaux

Olle – No shortage of great Korean in the area, but you’ll be hard pressed to find better Galbi Jjim

Ulivo – Nice all around Italian, good pizza, and a plethora of fresh pastas by a talented Sardinian

Milu – Fast food Chinese like no other.

Rezdora – Pricy high caliber Italian, especially the pastas, inspired by Emilia Romagna

Chelsea

Jun-Men Ramen – Good ramen but even better non Ramen items like the Mazemen and wings.

Tia Pol / Txikito / Salinas – Three excellent Spanish all timers, near each other. All quite different. I frequent Tia Pol more only because its more accessible.

Hell’s Kitchen

Frena – Elevated middle eastern by a seasoned chef, now owner. Taboon 2.0 for those who remember.

Chalong Southern Thai – Probably best Thai in Hell’s Kitchen today, if not Manhattan.

Danji – Former Michelin Korean. Nice comeback story after a devastating fire

Chi – Solid, stylish Szechuan with a twist

Don Antonio – Legit Neapolitan pies. Just about as good as it gets.

Pure Thai Cookhouse – Legendary Thai in Thai heavy Hell’s Kitchen

UWS

Pig and Khao – Used to frequent the LES location. Same menu as far as I know.

Categories: Chelsea, Chinatown, East Village, Gramercy, Flatiron, Lower East Side, Midtown West, New York City, SoHo, NoHo, Nolita | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

Danny & Coop’s Cheesesteaks – If You Build It, They Will Come

Posted on June 24, 2025 by Ziggy

When looking at my site stats, there’s always the usual outliers. Posts that get significantly more views than the rest on a daily basis for reasons not known to me. These days I’m seeing it with the Thai Diner Survival Guide, a Day in Brighton Beach, Four Gems in Alberobello, and my post on the Caminito del Rey. But in the last year or so, none garner more views than my post about Angelo’s Pizzeria in Philly. WordPress doesnt show me the search words. I can only see the sites where users come from, and on occasion I would see the rhyme and reason for the spikes, but not in this case.

If only NYC had one of the things Angelo’s Pizzeria is famous for. Well, the one that’s not pizza. The thing that people wait for sometimes hours, and eat it in the car because its strictly takeout. Well, we kinda have it now. The Danny part of the name is Danny DiGiampietro, one of the owners of Angelo’s Pizza. The Coop part is for some actor named Bradley Cooper who was making the one hit wonders during the first few days. Luckily he wasnt there to make mine the other day.

After going after such hype for decades in NYC, my expectations werent greatly inflated. I learned a long time ago that hype in NYC is often just that. It can be purchased, or generated by smart marketing. Besides, I read plenty of reviews that suggested the sandwiches lack seasoning, messy, and just not nearly as good as advertised.

But this was pretty darn good. I arrived 15 minutes before opening, and was racing to the car 30 minutes later. There was already a line of 6 or so when I arrived. The waits were well over an hour when they first opened. I rarely feel FOMO in one of the greatest food cities on earth, and can easily wait a year or more. I think I finally tried the Cronut 3 years later.

The first thing you notice is the size. It’s one of those difficult decisions a man in his 50’s must make. Share or suffer the consequences of eating the entire thing. Friday, June 20, Ziggy shares a sandwich with one of his daughters. A milestone. The exchange was so emotional, I forgot to give her her share of the hot peppers.

Whether you want hot or sweet peppers on the side is the only decision you have to make. I wasnt asked how to build the beast, and I cant tell you how much I admire that. If you build it, they will come. The no onion people (I’m talking to you Mrs Z), can just stay home. Though the onions are so translucent, I hardly felt them.

No seasoning issues whatsoever. The meat, fried onions, and Cooper Sharp Cheese (no relations, I think) blended together gorgeously. And the sesame seeded hoagie, baked in house was the perfect sturdy partner. The only issue, that may not be an issue at all, is that they load it pretty well, and half of the bread got a little soggy and couldnt quite hold it all together. But you can easily solve this by giving that half to the lucky person sharing this with you. Go!

Danny & Coop’s Cheesesteaks
151 Avenue A (East Village)

Categories: East Village, New York City | Tags: , , , | 2 Comments

Nowon – Stick to the Classic(s)

Posted on May 14, 2025 by Ziggy

The singular and most important classic being the “Legendary Burger”. In fact, I’ll make it simple. If you dont like burgers, or not planning to order the burger, skip Nowon altogether. I’m Pretty sure the name stands for “Nowon to blame but yourself, if you dont order the burger”. That’s not to say Nowon has nothing decent to eat besides that. They do. I just cant come up with a solid argument to go there for the rest of the “classics” in one of the best food neighborhoods in the city.

But at the same time, its important to temper expectations. Much has been written about the burger including various “best of” publications, Reddit hype, and children books (“Goodnight Burger”) to reach the legendary status. But while its very well crafted, its still just a burger. And if you live here and had your share of decent burgers, it wont be earth shattering. So many reviewers expect a life altering, pee a little, moment only to be disappointed.

But you will be hard pressed to find a better burger that doesnt involve fancy meat. Its a simple, yet why almost no one does it, sum of all parts case. A perfectly cooked double patty, Kimchi sauce, American cheese, pickles, and perhaps most importantly, a soft Sesame bun hat holds everything together and not too heavy. Its Hava Nagila in your mouth. The wedding version.

Another must classic is the Chopped Cheese Rice Cakes. Not quite as good as Momofuku, the unofficial Rice Cake pioneer in NYC, but very nicely done. The rice cakes feature plenty of crisp and the spiced beef ragu completes it. The Black Sesame Garlic Caesar Salad, while not totally distinguishable from regular Caesar, is still pretty solid, and pairs well with the rest of the dishes. We’ve had some nifty salads here in the past that are no longer on the menu.

The big first ever miss at Nowon was the awesome sounding Mushrooms with noodles. Didnt trust my judgment of saying no to any dish that lists bell peppers as an ingredient. A shockingly flat concoction especially next to the bold flavors of the rest of the dishes. I also didnt care for the too sweet Tater Tots with Honey Butter, but that could be just a personal preference as its one of the most popular dishes here.

The Black Sesame Creme Brulee is a sound finisher. Though the Rice Pudding sounds pretty good as well. They offer set menu options called Mixtapes which gets you half a burger. Dont be the douche that complains about it, as its very rational, and a full burger is almost a full meal in itself. Not sure how they manage odd numbers.

Another location is now in Bushwick. Go!

Nowon
507 E 6th (East Village)
Recommended Dishes: Burger, Rice Cakes, Caesar Salad, Creme Brulee

Categories: East Village, New York City | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

Rynn – Crafty, Undiscovered Thai in EV

Posted on March 3, 2025 by Ziggy

The last time I took a picture of an empty room, the place closed within a year. In a city of over 30k restaurants, good, even great places closing, is a daily phenomenon. But you only hear about the famous ones. One year old Rynn feels different. Besides the fact that its relatively undiscovered, its located in a sleepy area (for NYC) during the day. An early weekday lunch offers the best chance to experience a private lunch. Every blogger’s wet dream.

Thai food in NYC is having a moment. It’s not just Hell’s Kitchen and Queens anymore. Good ones are popping everywhere, even in Staten Island where I live. We went from zero to 3-5 solid choices in the last few years. But the best area to see this Thai renaissance might be North Brooklyn. Court street feels like the new 9th ave, and Smith street is not far behind. I recently covered one of the notables there.

Rynn is an ambitious project, opened by five women in East Village. Some sites like Eater claim five, while other sites, three. Not that it matters much, but there’s not a whole lot of info about the owners and where they worked in the past. Though everything points to very capable and experienced hands in all aspects of hospitality. When I hear of five owners coming from various Japanese and Thai establishments, my first thought is that every person may bring a unique perspective. My second thought is how the heck do they make any money.

Rynn, like Rua and many others are part of the new wave of ‘complete Thais’. You can pop in for a quick lunch, bring a date for dinner, or even your in-laws (not mine, yours). You can enjoy something familiar like Pad Thai or something more unique like their signature Strawberry salad. Instagrammable decor – check! Drinks – check and then some. This is one of the most creative cocktail menus I’ve seen in a Thai place. Even the menu itself is creative. Only issue is that creativity and ingredients here aint cheap.

Starting a meal with the best dish has its pros and cons. Tum Strawberry is as good as advertised. A refreshing mix of strawberries, grape tomatoes and gooseberries doing their best cherry tomato impersonation. It’s spicy, vinegary, and leaves a very pleasant tang. Reminiscent of a dish at the great Kann in Portland, OR.

A slightly less successful potential signature is La Tiang – Sautéed shrimp and pork wrapped with egg nests. Its more of a feast for the eyes than palate, but I’d still order it. Rynn understandably is very proud of the Robert Sietsema (Eater) coverage and they show it throughout the menu. While I’m not always in agreement with Sietsema, I’ve always admired his coverage of the little guys.

Like Butter Chicken or Tikka Masala at Indian joints, Kee Mao is my kryptonite, my weakness. Here it is one of those situations where it looks rather sad, but tastes rather great. Remember the “tastes great, less filling” beer commercials? It comes only as a seafood option as it should be. The calamari can be a little less chewy but the shrimp more than makes up for it, and the chili notes and overall flavor is spot on.

Another solid dish is Nua Yang Jaew – Grilled, thin Ribeye North Eastern Style. That means nicely marinated, fatty in all the right places Ribeye, accompanied by a complimentary fish/chili dipping sauce. You always hesitate to put anything on quality meat, but make this an exception. Not terribly expensive at $28 but it doesn’t come with anything else.

Mango with Homemade Butterfly Pea Sticky Rice is another Thai dish I cant pass on, but almost always disappointed. This was a good version, but I wasn’t quite satisfied with the sweetness. The Mango really took charge, more than I prefer. Pure Thai Cookhouse ruined it for me. But I’d still get this. Mango is of course seasonal, and its the beginning of season now. They even have a drink called “Not Mango Season”.

Rynn is one of those places I dont just want to come back and try the rest of the menu. I want to do it ASAP, like, today. But it’s just so damn cold. Go!

RYNN Thai Restaurant & Bar
309 E 5th St (East Village)
Recommended Dishes: Tum Strawberry, La Tiang, Kee Mao, Nua Yang Jaew, Mango with Sticky Rice

Categories: East Village, New York City | Tags: , , | Leave a comment

Fiaschetteria Pistoia – Under the Village Sun

Posted on January 31, 2025 by Ziggy

Just your friendly reminder that Fiaschetteria Pistoia is still awesome. You dont survive this long off Ave C without doing something right. And that something is the closest NYC has to a Tuscan Trattoria. When the owners of Pistoia opened this location in early 2017, they knew how to cook one thing, really well. The cuisine of Pistoia. That’s where they lived and owned a restaurant, just outside of Florence. That means Tuscan classics like the bready Pappa Al Pomodoro, Crostini with liver, Pici Cacio e pepe, and other fresh pastas.

Speaking of which (fresh pastas), when I walk inside Pistoia with a group, I know exactly where I want to sit. Facing the pasta making station. Sort of homefield advantage since I’m usually the only one who knows exactly where it is. I can think of very few places, Ulivo one, that offers a selection of high quality fresh pastas in all shapes and sizes. In fact, other than the occasional special, they only offer one Secondi, Veal Scaloppine, which is safe to skip.

Concentrate on the things Pistoia does well, some of which is best in the business variety. My “recommended dishes” here is one of the longest in the EWZ universe. Start with the exceptional Prosciutto San Daniele, or “proshoot” if you are dining with a Brooklynite. The Sformatino is another must. Wonderfully creamy Zucchini flan. Adding the classic Crostini Toscani to recommended list.

Too many great pastas on the menu, so best to bring friends, in-laws, etc. I hosted a wild party there once. By wild I mean some ordered two drinks and there was very minimal weather talk. The Tagliatelle al Tartufo is a new discovery. As expected for $34, its mostly truffle sauce base, but its incredibly satisfying. Another new one is Gnocchi with Spare Rib Ragu. Although the small Gnocchi could have been firmer, the familia had no complaints and I’d order it again.

In Tuscany, Cacio e Pepe is done with the thicker and chewier Pici, and after all these years, Pistoia seemed to perfect their version. In other places it may not be peppery enough, too creamy, or not creamy enough. Same goes for their Tiramisu. I crave it after an Italian meal as such, and it so often disappoints. The Panna Cotta, this time with a berry sauce is another winner. Go!

Original Post

Fiaschetteria Pistoia
647 E 11th (Off C), East Village
Recommended Dishes: Prosciutto San Daniele, Sformatino, Pappa al Pomodoro, Crostini Toscani, Spaghetti, Pappardelle, Maccheroni, Picci Cacio e peppe, Gnocchi, Tagliatelle al Tartufo, Tiramisu, Panna Cotta

Categories: East Village, New York City | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

Leon’s – Fortune Favors the Brave

Posted on December 25, 2024 by Ziggy

Being a food enthusiast while living in the ‘burbs in NYC is a major handicap. There are very few places I can think of, like Chuan Tian Xia in Sunset Park that I frequent about once a year, and that is as regular as it gets for us. There’s a restaurant in Turks and Caicos that we visit more often than 99% of our favorites back at home. Our appreciation of a large number of cuisines, and craving for the new and exciting is largely responsible. The list of places I want to try just about doubles every year.

That’s why it feels strange visiting places I truly admire like Foxface Natural, Werkstatt, Pig & Khao, Pure Thai Cookhouse and so many others without a doctor’s note explaining my absence. Freak paragliding accident in Switzerland. Chest contusion while rescuing baby elephants in Chiang Mai. I can generate a list for each place.

One way to fix this and get my immediate attention is for one of the chefs I admire to open a new place. One month old Leon’s is the latest from Anton’s “mom & pop”, Natalie Johnson and Nick Anderer. According to EWZ historians, Anderer’s name has been mentioned here 10 times between Maialino, Marta, Martina, and Anton’s. That means an obvious exception to the rule of waiting at least a year before trying a new place. I gave the dude a month.

If Leon’s feels like a place that’s been a year in the making, it’s because it was. “Mom and pop” second acts usually dont exist, not to mention as ambitious as this. Sprawling, high ceiling, and smack in the middle of it all on Broadway near Union Square. Technically just outside of East Village, though for the purpose of this blog its in East Village. I realize there’s no “Greenwich Village” category here and changing category names on WordPress is as complicated as rent negotiations. Rarely something interesting opens in the village that’s not in west or east.

Everything about Leon’s is daring. The space has been abandoned for many years. It’s open all day including breakfast. Even the name is gutsy. NYC has almost as many businesses named Leon’s as Ray’s Pizza. The menu is somewhat of a gamble as well, but if anyone can pull this off, its this team. Italian by nature with an Egyptian and French twist. Egyptian, to honor Natalie’s heritage. French, to honor Anderer showing off!

We started with some of the best cold cuts I’ve had in NYC in recent memory. A sweet and aromatic Bresaola with a very pleasant aftertaste. A more delicate, fatty, peppery, not quite Mortadella, Salame Rosa from Berkeley. Try them without the bread first for the full experience. A free Focaccia with quality EVOO. Almost a rarity in NYC these days.

A couple of items where we played my favorite new game, “Guess the Falafel”. The answer is the balls sitting on Tehini sauce of course, but even that may not be real Falafel according to purists. Its the Egyptian version which means Fava Beans instead of Chickpeas. While it may not convert the purists, it’s delicious. With that said, the light, airy Eggplant Boulettes with the creamy tomato sauce is the clear winner in this Schweddy Balls contest.

Another winner is the silky smooth Tuna Carpaccio with capers and fried shallots. Although, I cant help but wonder what it will taste like with a hint or two of pink peppercorns and less oil. This is off the “Mare” section of the Antipasti which sent me back to the coasts of Puglia.

Choosing pastas at an Anderer establishment is like choosing between your children. At the moment its the oldest since she calls more often, and for that reason I chose the Busiate. Pretty much what you expect, a simple but satisfying tomatoee Pistou Rouge with Almonds. Trapanese with a French touch. Fettuccine with Bolognese al Pastore was a lesson in proper ragu. Meaty, rich goodness that left us debating whether to get more bread to properly Scrarpetta that thing.

There’s also a Pasta con le Sarde on the menu, a rare Sicilian classic. Sicily is the one region with a big Arab influence, hence represented at Leon’s. There’s also Spaghetti with Madagascar Cacio e Pepe. If you havent smelled Madagascar peppercorns, you havent lived life to the fullest. Another dish I’d like to try soon is the Brick Chicken Baharat. If you havent tried Anderer’s chickens at Maialino, Marta, and Anton’s, you havent, well, you know. Go!

Leon’s
817 Broadway (E 12th)
Recommended Dishes: Salame Rosa, Bresaola, Eggplant Boulettes, Tuna Carpaccio, Busiate, Fettuccine Bolognese al Pastore

Categories: East Village, New York City | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

Spice Brothers – Latest From the Spice Master

Posted on October 11, 2024 by Ziggy

I keep passing by La Boite deep in the boondocks of Hell’s Kitchen, looking at the front window, searching for any signs of life. The spice blend store used by many chefs around the city (like myself!) has been closed for about a year now. I know, I know, I can buy them online, but the ability to smell them online hasnt made it to the US. Maybe Silicon Valley is working on it, but I’m not ready to spend thousands on VR headsets that will allow me to smell Sumac.

La Boite is owned by Lior Lev Sercarz, an author, and classically trained chef with an extensive Michelin resume. But unlike many Michelin graduates, instead of opening restaurants, Lior took a totally different path. High quality spice blending. Chefs around the world, like Eric Ripert collaborated with Sercarz to produce spice blends, and I cant quite think of any such spice source in the city. The excellent SOS Chefs in East Village comes to mind, but thats for pure spices, especially of the rare kind.

Last September Sercarz opened Spice Brothers with David Malbequi, a fellow Boulud alum, in East Village. Still, not a full service restaurant, but a fast casual Middle Eastern offering high quality Shawarma, Sabich, Hummus and other goodies. All obviously using La Boite spice blends. So expect your fries for example to be far from ordinary. Thicker “Steak Fries” wedges dusted with one of my favorite La Boite blends, Shabazi (cilantro, chili, garlic, lemon).

You dont get much of a say as to what goes inside your Shawarma, which I actually like. But at the same time I havent tried to change anything so I may be spreading misinformation. You just have to choose between Shawarma West (Chicken) and East (Beef and Lamb). Both are spiced accordingly of course, and come loaded with fresh veggies, herbs, Tehina and the Amba, the sharp Mango condiment that goes really well with Shawarma. Though the best condiment may be their homemade Harissa that comes inside the West Shawarma, and better yet as a side with the order of the fries.

Sabich is one of the only vegetarian sandwiches I eat reguarly, and its another winner at Spice Brothers. Fried eggplant, hard boiled eggs, and of course more Tehina and Amba. The falafel is good, but closer to the typical herb heavy falafel, except that its on another crisp level. I didnt try the Hummus yet, nor the lone dessert. In East Village, the dessert options are stupendous these days.

You got your usual options of bowl, Laffa and more. I’d go for the Pita over Laffa here. They can easily divide both. Every sauce like the excellent Z’hug can be ordered for $1. Regulars on EWZ are well too familiar with my love for Z’hug. Its guaranteed to make anything taste better. But everything at Spice Brothers is worth a try. Besides finding yourself at one of the coolest streets in NYC. Go!

Spice Brothers
110 St Marks Pl (1st/A, East Village)
Recommended Dishes: Chicken Shawarma, Falafel, Sabich, Fries

Categories: East Village, New York City | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

Taco Tuesday – Old Morelos, New Tacombi

Posted on August 29, 2023 by Ziggy
sideways.nyc

A new short feature on EWZ. It will be just like some of the old features. You’ll see it once, and you wont see it again ;). But lets hope this one sticks. I have a feeling it will as I have a list as long as my garden hose of taco places to try and revisit. Its one of those shrinkable garden hoses, so dont get scared. We’ll kick off this very exciting feature with my favorite food neighborhood in the city, East Village.

Tacos Cuautla Morelos (East 9th)

I think there should be a special award to food establishments that survive 10 years in East Village. Very quietly this hole in the wall, mom and pop (more like uncle and niece) on East 9th keeps chugging along. While you’ll find some hints of state of Morelos specialties like Tlacoyos, this is more of a typical taqueria menu you can find all over the city.

This time I came for a taco I enjoyed in the past (Pibil) but happily discovered one even better (Lengua). Cochinita Pibil is not something you can easily find in NYC, but is a staple in Morelos. Its marinated with Achiote, a special Orange paste that gives it that red color. Frankly, after having this in CDMX, I wasnt exactly wowed by it this time, as the flavor is not as distinct. But compared to most tacos in NYC, its still pretty darn solid. The latest discovery was a beautiful Lengua (tongue). Its brand new on the menu (not even listed yet as of this writing), and its exactly what you’d expect from a nice and tender Lengua.

Tacombi (East 12th)

Total opposite to Morelos, Tacombi is not only a chain nowadays, but slowly becoming the Shake Shack of tacos now that its backed by Danny Meyer. The writing is all over the wall – a future national chain. Once a chain expends as such, it becomes forgettable unless it offers something different and exceptional. Enter the new branch on the odd corner of East 12th and 3rd where the idea is to get a little closer to a Mexico City style taqueria. Need more data, but for far so legit in both the looks and flavor department.

A staple in Mexico City is the Suadero taco, the beef (brisket) version of Carnitas. Its slowly cooked in pork fat, and its even more rare in NYC than the previously mentioned Pibil. Again, not as eye popping as the versions we had in Mexico City, but surprisingly quite moist, and just fatty enough. Something I’d definitely order again. Same goes for the pastor where you get a good amount of nice, dry (not too dry), flavorful strips. If you check your preconceived chain notions at the door, you may find yourself eating at a counter in La Condesa. Except its about 10x the price.

Eater
Categories: East Village, New York City | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

5 Standout NYC Brunches

Posted on August 15, 2023 by Ziggy

As a self confessed food snob it has taken me decades to finally warm up to brunch. In fact at some point I simply hated the concept. I understood it, but hated it. It always felt like the industry asked Hallmark, the inventor of Valentine’s day for help. “Its simple. Just invent a fourth meal, late enough in the day where you can offer alcohol. Make it only once or twice a week so people can feel like they are celebrating something, and maybe they’ll order more alcohol”

I mean, once you take out eggs and avocado toasts from the menu, you are basically left with savory lunch items combined with sweet breakfast items. Eggs to me can be eaten all day long. In fact I normally have them for lunch. Once a month I make a more elaborate egg meal, usually on a Sunday. We call it breakfast!

But this doesnt mean I dont partake in this tradition. I do enjoy a good shakshuka at any given day and time, and I have trouble saying no to hyped up pancakes. I just dont call it brunch. Its a late breakfast or lunch for me. But I’ll play along, at least for the purpose of this post, and list 5 brunches that stand out from the rest. Most of these do have a common theme, and so not particularly diverse…

Rana Fifteen – Park Slope, Brooklyn

The last thing I expected from the Filipino FOB team is to open a Turkish restaurant. But then again, half of the team is in fact Turkish. They opened less than a year ago, and its unlike any Turkish that we know in NYC. All you need to do is order one dish. One of two egg dishes for breakfast, er, Brunch. And next thing you know, you get everything but the kitchen sink laid out in such way, you dont know where to start. As the name suggests, 15 savory and sweet homemade delights including outstanding pancakes and various spreads. Combined, its a symphony of flavors, with no bad apples to be found. This is brunch for people who hate brunch.

Chez Ma Tante – Greenpoint, Brooklyn

This is a more “traditional” brunch with two issues. Its in Greenpoint, and its dangerously close to possibly the best tacos in town, Taqueria Ramirez. But I wouldnt mention this gem unless it had at least one very good reason to schlep to Greenpoint. Pancakes, ranked up there with some of the best I’ve had in nyc, including Clinton St Bakery. Thick, crispy, fluffy, and addictively sweet. Its not exactly an area secret so prepare to wait.

19 Cleveland – Nolita

The name doesn exactly scream some of the best Israeli food in the city, like little sister Nish Nush. But to me this is just the kind of light Mediterranean fair that differentiates itself from other brunches. Expect of course solid Hummus and falafel, but also craftier stuff like eggplant carpaccio, fish shawarma and short rib bourekas. And yes, of course there’s a sick Shakshuka.

Cafe Mogador – East Village and Williamsburg

For years whenever I passed by Mogador in East Village, I had to cross to the other side of the street during peak brunch time. The many patrons waiting, sometimes for over an hour to be seated, know whats up. You forget sometimes that this is a Moroccan restaurant specializing in Tagine. Arguably, the real specialty here is eggs. Whether in Moroccan style, a la shakshuka with merguez sausage, a Sabich platter dominated by perfectly roasted eggplant, or just in a form of a very good Benedict.

Opera Cafe Lounge, Sheepshead Bay, Brooklyn

Emmons Ave in Sheepshead Bay is like the local version of a tourist trap. An attractive area filled with one pretentious place after another. Opera is the one exception (that I know), consistently dishing out fresh middle eastern goodies for quite some time now. Partly due to its size, Opera has slowly become the go to place for celebrations, and just casual no reservations needed brunches. This is where we usually take my mom for brunch, and our orders are always the same. The ‘Breakfast Platter’ that includes various cold cuts, cheese, jams, and drinks. And my personal fave, Menemen (Turkish scrambled eggs) with Sujuk, a spicy dry sausage.

Categories: Brooklyn, East Village, New York City, SoHo, NoHo, Nolita | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

Claud – Fortune Favors the Patient

Posted on August 4, 2023 by Ziggy

A few posts ago I wrote that it takes about a year for me to check out a new restaurant in NYC. Usually, I’m in no rush, and rather wait for the establishment to find its stride, and/or the excitement to cool off. Often the stride never arrives, and they close within a year. Sometimes the hype seems artificial, and I lose interest. And sometimes, like with Claud, the hype reaches national proportions (thank you Pete Wells), and it takes roughly a year to score a table.

In this case, the plan was not to wait a full year. But after numerous attempts, I finally got a couple of bar seats, a day shy of Claud’s first anniversary. The truth is that I’ve been following Josh Pinsky ever since the Momofuku Nishi days. He called the cops on me a few times, but after a while he got used to it. When he left Nishi, I felt it was the beginning of the end, and the pandemic just expedited Nishi’s demise. Just like my touring “career”.

For Josh and partner Chase Sinzert it was only a matter of when and where. During or after the pandemic, east or west coast. Thankfully they chose the right coast, where recovered “Fukus” can appreciate them most. Claud feels like a Momofuku support club for fans and staff, with more ex Nishi than I anticipated.

But first thing first, the bread. Well actually, since I’m now over 50, the bathroom. This is got to be the most atmospheric, dare I say, romantic, toilet in the city. The lighting is perfect, its smartly decorated, and there are cookbooks for your reading pleasure in case you decide to stick around. I recommend not.

If the bread is an indication of things to come (as often is the case), you can expect brilliance the rest of the way at Claud. A sourdough with room temp, spreadable butter was soft and hard in all the right places, and pretty much bread perfection. Like truffles in Piedmont in November, the bread was center stage. It was hanging around throughout the meal, kept coming for the dishes that needed it, until we finally had to say stop.

Talking about Piedmont, this is one of the few places in the city that make Agnolotti “Plin” style all year round. Its a treat that very few restaurants make year round, some even stopped altogether due to the labor involved. But at Claud, being one of the “signature dishes”, the chicken liver Agnolotti stays to prevent rioting in East Village. Liver freak Mrs Z in particular, was in heavan.

Early on, the crab and corn fritters did the trick, with that sweet summer corn coming through nicely. And a solid buttery foie gras terrine with honey vinegar jell. Shrimp, another signature, comes sizzling on a very hot skillet. They are barely cooked, yet firm, plump, and insanely satisfying. When it comes to seafood, Pinsky doesnt mess around with too many ingredients and lets the main ingredient shine. Same goes for any raw fish you may come across (two on the current menu).

The thing about Pinsky, and Momofuku school of cooking in general, is that “Signature Dishes” is almost an oxymoron. Its a machine that continues to invent. Cooking AI if you will. On any given night you can find a dish that agrees with you most. For me it was the Halibut with cockles and green garlic. The fish was firmer than usual, not breaking apart every time you touch, yet the perfect texture. Its surrounded by a delicate complementary dashi reminiscent of a scallop dish we once had at Ko. This was pure food magic.

We couldnt find enough belly room for the much hyped mammoth Devil’s food cake. But the root beer ice cream was brilliant in itself. Whether you are into root beer in this case is almost irrelevant. Go! If you can, for Pinsky’s refined, simple cooking, and the bathrooms. In that order.

Claud
90 E 10th St, East Village
Recommended Dishes: Fritters, Foie Gras, Shrimp, Agnolotti, Halibut, Ice Cream

Categories: East Village, New York City | Tags: , , , , | 1 Comment

Blog at WordPress.com.