New York City

Theodora – A Hanukkah Miracle in Fort Greene

After two years of trying to get the hottest table in Brooklyn, it finally happened. Snatched two Chef Counter spots the day prior. Did I try very hard? Not really. If you look at Theodora reservations at any given time, you wont see any. I cant even commit to what I’ll watch on Netflix tonight, not alone where I’ll eat with how many people a month from now. Not to mention its NYC. Plenty of exciting options, old and new, that require much less effort.

Chef Counter seats are always a gamble as you never quite know what you going to get. A relaxed environment with a chatty chef, or “The Bear” like chaos. Here its somewhere in the middle. Organized chaos, led by the screamer, a fellow, with opera experience no doubt, that yells the orders standing right next to me. After the initial shock to the system of “FIRE.. CABBAGE… ALL DAY!!!!”, we quickly got used to it. Though when you start yelling fire near an actual fire, other thoughts come to mind.

And since I’m ranting, is it time perhaps to retire the long awkward, “Have you been here before? Well, our dishes are meant for sharing. Its best to order 4-10 dishes because our margins are very thin and the opera singer didnt come cheap“. Oh! Good to know. I was about to order the cabbage dish all for myself. In this day and age its like asking if we have been out in the past 15 years. Its as useful as a hotel booking site listing a Flat Screen TV in the hotel room. When was the last time you saw a TV that wasnt flat.

Theodora is the latest from the team behind Mis Ada nearby. The focus is on fish, aged fish, but we were drooling inches away from the chicken dishes that they kept dishing out. It’s one of those menus that I want to try every single item, given the chance. Even though it wasnt exactly a slam dunk meal, and kinda pricy, I recommend trying at least once.

The food breakdown:

Hiramasa – The most hyped Crudo on the menu was surprisingly just ok for us. They age all or almost all their fish, but here the 4 delicate cuts get lost in the shuffle of sauces and avocado (hiding underneath). Good flavors but mostly not from the fish. Perhaps in other places, this would have been more of a highlight.

Wood-Fired Cabbage – Ugly delicious. Smoky, but could have used more. Elevate by the Calabrian Chili Butter. Happy I was allowed to share this with her since it was her favorite dish.

Sourdough – With Whipped Ricotta, Brown Butter, Honey, Sage. Another hyped dish but this time for good reason. Light and absolutely delicious. Seems easy to make, but would be hard to find quality Sourdough and Ricotta such as this. Though you can buy the bread two doors down at their bakery Thea.

Striped Sea Bass – Another great dish. Perfectly cooked bass in a superb broth with saffron, with mussels and charred sunchokes adding much needed texture.

Whole Butterflied Trout – Mexico City style, Harissa on one side, and Chermoula (The North African Chimichurri) on the other. The sauces were very mild which was a good thing. Much of the richness came from the Pil Pil sauce at the base. Very good overall, but a very large dish without any sides. Maybe some rice, or even pita bread would be nice. Or at least serve the cabbage dish with it if ordered.

Baklava Sundae – Regrettable choice. I should really start bringing my own Lebanese Halva and Silan to these outings. Should have gone with the cheesecake as originally planned.

The drinks were good. They use spices including pepper in many of them. I liked the smoky Mayahuel martini.

Happy Holidays everyone!

Categories: Brooklyn, New York City | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

Papa San – Severely Underrated Nikkei

Not often a restaurant opens by a celebrated chef or group flies under the radar in NYC. Seeing a mostly empty room on a Sunday night was very strange considering this is the latest from Juan Correa and chef Erik Ramirez off the Llama Inn and Llama San fame (granted closed and closing). And especially considering how strong this meal was.

The location has much to do with it. Many see Hudson Yards as up and coming but to me its up and going, especially when it comes to unfamiliar flavors. Momofuku’s Kawi was the most interesting place to ever open in HY, only to close two years later. David Chang revamping his empire had something to do with it, but still. Business lunches and tourists in the area generally opt for something simple like Zou Zou’s (Mediterranean) or Ci Siamo (Italian). Most visitors probably never even heard of Nikkei (Japanese Peruvian).

With that said, Papa San might be the best offering by the Llama Group, and has the potential to become a destination place. A Hannukah miracle if you will, or a destination place is the only hope because “how about Hudson Yards” literally said no one when it comes to choosing a night out in NYC. Its usually the villages and surrounding areas, if not Hell’s Kitchen. Although technically, according to Google Maps at least, Papa San is just inside Hell’s Kitchen.

The food rundown. We mostly ordered from the “Small Plates” section of the menu as that looks like their strength.

Mussels – Almost didn’t order this because it was, well, mussels. Some of the best in years if not decades. Plump, gorgeous mussels in one of those addictive curry sauces with sweet heat from the Aji Amarillo (Peruvian yellow peppers). And comes with a surprise, perfect McDonald’s fries to dip in that sick sauce.  

Miso Black Cod – The weakest link is more of a testament to the other dishes. Expertly cooked, delicate Cod on Nori flavored Polenta. Subtle flavors, and while satisfying, forgettable compared to the explosive flavors of the rest. Still I’d order this again. 

Eel Pizza – Salty, sweet, nicely balanced with the eel, shitake, pecorino, dancing bonito flakes and tangy sauce.  Probably the most hyped dish here, and rightfully so, except that other dishes were equally as good if not better.

Wagyu Tri Tip – Exactly what you expect from a place like this.  Perfectly cooked, thinly sliced with a very complimentary Yuzu Bearnaise.

Udon Noodles – Another signature, marketed as a play on Cacio e Pepe. This was just sensational. Complex, deep flavors with sautéed squid adding nice texture.  If you like the chew on sautéed squid from say Blue Ribbon Sushi, you’d like this.  

Tsukemodo Cucumbers side – refreshing bites to cut all that richness.   

Creative drinks, friendly staff, nothing but smiles from the open kitchen (not sure if thats still the case when they are busy). The space is attractive, and the menu fairly priced for Manhattan.  Good option this month to pair with the holiday lights at Hudson Yards.

501 W 34th St.

Categories: Hudson Yards, New York City | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

Chalong Competition!

See what I did there? Hope the title makes sense to some of you. Humor, or whatever you call this, doesnt always translate well on the internet, but of course I never learn. Even the Chalong post below that I wrote in July of this year made me cringe and so I corrected it to “cringe light”.

Anywho, this is just a friendly reminder that Chalong in Thai heavy Hell’s Kitchen is a strong candidate for NYC’s best or one of the best Thai. It’s not impossible, but hard to imagine a more well rounded, flavor rich menu. We had another epic meal last week, and this time we brought some of the fiercest food critics we know, our children. Conclusion: 10 big, sweaty thumbs up.

The notable additions this time to all the awesomeness mentioned below is the beef fried rice, and Massaman Duck Confit. A good Massaman Duck that features just the right balance of sweet and tang with super tender Duck is hard to find. In fact the last time I had a good one was in Philly.

I know I havent been posting much about my hometown lately. Been travelling quite a bit, and had a fare share of mediocre meals here as of late (I’m looking at you Da Toscano). Another reason is that I’ve been having some weird, random health issues lately, but I’m all good now, ready to go.

Categories: Midtown West, New York City | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

Brooklynites Swooning Over Swoony’s

What do you do when you try a popular place and it’s not up to snuff? You try the sister, naturally. Cafe Spaghetti as the youngsters say these days, was “Mid” for us. Neither here nor there. But it was mostly service related if I recall. Swoony’s, the owner’s follow-up that opened two years ago, got on my radar way before I realized its the sister. Once I did I wasnt in a rush to go.

But the day finally arrived, and the verdict… its excellent. None of the service issues and better food. Swoony’s is the American version of Cafe Spaghetti. American classics with similar old school elements. The room, pickle Jewish deli plates, funky New Wave hits, contributed to an 80’s vibe. Back then however, we wouldnt even dream about going to Red Hook or Columbia Street nearby.

The food rundown:

Whipped Goat Cheese – With Chili crunch, cucumbers, and grilled sourdough. Terrific Stuff. You expect spicy but instead you get a nicely balanced spread with a good amount of crunch.

Potato Croquettes – I didnt try them but friends claim… Good.

Creamy Lobster Orzo – One of the signatures. Pretty much what you expect, in a good way. Rich, comforting, with plenty of lobster. Could have used a little less salt, but I’d order again.

Dorade – With Green beans, potatoes, olives, salsa verde, and lemon. Expertly cooked skin on Dorade with a perfect supporting cast. Definitely Get this.

Short Rib Au Poivre – Another signature, and probably best dish of the night. Just the kind of texture you expect from two beautiful slabs. The fries are good too, and as I learned many moons ago in Turks and Caicos, fries and Au Poivre is a match made in heaven. Which means, could have used more Au Poivre here.

French Toast – Skip!

Conclusion: Go! Nothing outrageous, but pretty decent elevated enough, American comfort food. The burger is another item getting much hype, though there are hundreds of solid burgers out there these days. Good service, decent drinks, and great vibe. The place is fairly popular, and one of the most mentioned on Reddit, so best to reserve

215 Columbia St, Brooklyn

Categories: Brooklyn, New York City | Tags: , , | Leave a comment

Da Toscano Porchetta Shop – Gem Hidden in Plain Sight

Da Toscano

First, time to make another change to the blog. Its been about 13 incredible years, and food blogs are slowly becoming obsolete, replaced by other forms of social media. I do want to keep it going, but I just dont have the same amount of time and energy. From now on, my NYC blog posts will be short, sweet, and to the point, writing mostly about the food.

Da Toscano Porchetta Shop, located in, you guessed it, Da Toscana, a popular restaurant in the West Village. “Popular? Never heard of it, Ziggy”. Its one of those quiet, those in the know fame. We had a memorable meal there when they opened, and I figured I’ll blog about it when I’ll have a bigger meal. But that day never came. Popularity took off and its hard to reserve these days.

While Da Toscano open for dinner only these days, you can enjoy the the Porchetta sandwiches and more at the bar or takeout during lunchtime 4 days a week. The opening hours on Google and elsewhere confuse many to believe they are open for lunch, but its really just for the sandwiches. This is the follow-up to their Porchetta shop in Charleston, one of four businesses they have there.

I tried the original Porchetta sandwich. San Gennaro feast in my mouth is one way to put it. A whole hog is roasted with rosemary and fennel for 8 hours. They then slice it and let the slices swim with its juices, before serving it with Salsa Verde, Crackling, and Aged Provolone between fluffy Focaccia that hold their own. The result is a glorious blend with the tender meat reigning supreme. Some of the juiciest and tastiest Porchetta I’ve ever had.

Conclusion: New Yorkers are spending tons of hours waiting for subpar social media hyped sandwiches all over the city. Sometimes the good stuff can be found at the most unexpected places by highly talented chefs. Its like having an omelette at a popular diner vs a chef’s joint like Anton’s who studied the heck out of making the perfect one.

PS. Couldnt take a good picture. Lighting, shaky hands, the drooling, all of the above. The pictures are courtesy of Da Toscano

24 Minetta Ln, West Village

Da Toscano

Categories: New York City, West Village | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

Saint Julivert – Less is Less

First, time to make another change to the blog. Its been about 13 incredible years, and food blogs are slowly becoming obsolete, replaced by other forms of social media. I do want to keep it going, but I just dont have the same amount of time and energy. From now on, my NYC blog posts will be short, sweet, and to the point, writing mostly about the food.

Saint Julivert is a seafood focused eatery in Cobble Hill, Brooklyn. Opened in 2018 by Alex Raij and Eder Montero, the husband-and-wife team behind La Vara, next door, and Txikito which I included in the best of NYC list. The well respected duo essentially reinvented Spanish Tapas in NYC. Saint Julivert is on the Michelin Bib Gourmand list (good quality, good value cooking). The dishes are fairly small but the waitstaff recommends 4-5 dishes for two, like any other restaurant.

Sorullitos – Nicely spiced hushpuppies sitting on tangy mayo. Solid, well priced snack. No issues here.

Amberjack – Raw, high quality Amberjack (Kampachi). I appreciated the tomato water and Shiso oil as opposed to the usual acidic crudo, but an expensive 4 bites each when sharing with someone.

Polenta/Chickpeas fritters topped with Baba ghanoush and salmon – A special that sounded good, and it was. But essentially an expensive (over $20) amuse bouche. One weird theme here is that they advise sharing, but serve everything in odd numbers.

Squid a la Placha with Mushrooms – Just fine. Not as good as I hoped. The Mushroom flavors didnt really pop, and the whole dish was just a tad too sweet. Only when I mixed the sauces at the end, I got the right balance.

Venetian style Risotto – Nice smoky flavor, but midway it started to feel like an excellent, pricy side dish. I would have loved to pair with fish or another protein for some texture. For a “Fisherie”, they dont have any fish on the menu, other than an expensive special on this night.

5 dishes, one drink, $170 (includes tax/tips)

Conclusion: Plenty of creativity and top notch ingredients. Just not enough food. Sure I can order more dishes and push it well over $200, but at the end we simply didnt feel like we were getting good value. Not often I can go for a slice of pizza after a meal. If you order 4 dishes as the waitress suggested (“4-5”), you could even do a burger. It felt like an 8 course tasting menu that ended midway. A one and done for me.

264 Clinton St, Brooklyn

Categories: Brooklyn, New York City | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

Best Restaurants in Manhattan

Well, the people of Reddit have spoken, after putting together the Brooklyn picks. For Manhattan I grouped them instead of creating another map (Brooklyn is huge). And just like with Brooklyn, there are certain areas as you can see where I dont spend much time. UWS and UES are just too far, and not as interesting, while Midtown East and Times Square are hotel/tourist heavy, with minimal parking, and more suited for business lunches. Rarely anything interesting opens there.

I also think its time to retire the Z-List. I’ve been managing it for many years, and I’ve had many people commenting on how useful it is. But a list of 30 that covers a large area, no matter how often updated, can run its course. I know some rely on it, but I think its better to rely on its Brooklyn and Manhattan list replacements at this point. I will leave the Z-List up for a while to give people a chance to say goodbye 😉

I will update these lists often. This one is more or less from south to north, with the borders stretched on occasion to fit everyone…

Tribeca

Nish Nush – One of the best if not the best Falafels in the city for a few decades now.

Au Cheval – Go for the sick burger, stay for the Mac & Cheese.

LES / Chinatown

Ginger and Lemongrass – Pretty much for the spicy lemongrass soup.

Shu Jiao Fu Zhou – Hard to beat for a quick cheap dumplings and noodles.

Spicy Village – Slightly uncomfortable but exceptional Chinese. Try the dumplings and Big Tray of Chicken

Uncle Lou’s – Got a little too touristy lately but this is where I’d go for Cantonese right now

Katz’s Deli – The Pastrami Temple. Mega touristy for a reason

Corima – Affordable, superb creative Mexican

Nolita / Little Italy

Thai Diner – Super popular for a reason. Try to come at Off-peak hours

Wayan – Vongerichten Jr doing all kinds of Indonesian/French magic

19 Cleveland – Excellent all around Israeli

Tomiño Taberna Gallega – NYC’s best if not only pure Galician. Meaning get the Octopus

Figo il Gelato – Fig/Ricotta Gelato when fresh is hard to beat

Soho

Raoul’s – A celebrated old French Bistro.

San Carlo Osteria Piemonte – Almost does Italy’s top food region justice. Order from the Piemonte menu

Rivareno Gelato – I’m an ice cream junky and this is my favorite Gelato these days. Especially appreciate the northern flavors

Pinch Chinese – Outstanding elevated Chinese. A favorite since they opened pretty much

Greenwich Village

Anton’s – I follow certain chefs I admire, until they call the cops 😉 Nick Anderer (Mailino, Marta) did an amazing job curating a great menu at Anton’s. He’s now doing his magic at his second, Leon’s (great lunch so far). Love the brunches here too.

L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele – While not exactly the same as the Napoli original, a fancy pizzeria with a full menu

Jeju Noodle Bar – I preferred this Korean before the Michelin star, but its still outstanding

Balaboosta – The flagship of one of the most celebrated Israeli chefs.

Song’ e Napule – If I have to pick just one pizzeria

Leitao – Superb Portuguese. One of my favorite discoveries in the last few years

Via Carota – Possibly the most well rounded Italian we have. Popular for a reason

Dell’anima – Italian in West Village is having a moment. Just moved back after many years deep in Hell’s Kitchen. Exceptional pastas and chicken.

East Village

Foxface Natural (Temporarily closed) – From a tiny Sandwich shop to creative Michelin style dining.

Hearth – A reliable old timer and the creator of Brodo.

Fiaschetteria “Pistoia” – The closest we have to eating in a Tuscan village

Carnitas Ramirez – Possibly best tacos in NYC today.

Danny & Coop’s Cheesesteaks – Yes, worth the hype.

Spice Brothers – When a spice master opens a fast food Middle Eastern. Worth checking out

Nowon – Our go-to for a simple burger, rice cakes and more.

Claude – Josh Pinsky is another chef I follow for a while, from the Momofuku days in this case.

Flatiron / Gramercy

L’Express – One of the most reliable Brasseries in the city, aging like a fine Bordeaux

Olle – No shortage of great Korean in the area, but you’ll be hard pressed to find better Galbi Jjim

Ulivo – Nice all around Italian, good pizza, and a plethora of fresh pastas by a talented Sardinian

Milu – Fast food Chinese like no other.

Rezdora – Pricy high caliber Italian, especially the pastas, inspired by Emilia Romagna

Chelsea

Jun-Men Ramen – Good ramen but even better non Ramen items like the Mazemen and wings.

Tia Pol / Txikito / Salinas – Three excellent Spanish all timers, near each other. All quite different. I frequent Tia Pol more only because its more accessible.

Hell’s Kitchen

Frena – Elevated middle eastern by a seasoned chef, now owner. Taboon 2.0 for those who remember.

Chalong Southern Thai – Probably best Thai in Hell’s Kitchen today, if not Manhattan.

Danji – Former Michelin Korean. Nice comeback story after a devastating fire

Chi – Solid, stylish Szechuan with a twist

Don Antonio – Legit Neapolitan pies. Just about as good as it gets.

Pure Thai Cookhouse – Legendary Thai in Thai heavy Hell’s Kitchen

UWS

Pig and Khao – Used to frequent the LES location. Same menu as far as I know.

Categories: Chelsea, Chinatown, East Village, Gramercy, Flatiron, Lower East Side, Midtown West, New York City, SoHo, NoHo, Nolita | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

Best Restaurants in Brooklyn – Mapped

A longish list of my favorites in Brooklyn, the borough I spend the most time eating. Its a huge Borough, fourth-largest city in the United States by population, if it was a city. Hence plenty of great dining that I miss in neighborhoods I dont frequent much, mainly due to where I live. Bushwick is one example. But there are plenty of juicy nuggets in there. The list includes some bakeries, and fast-casual places as well. Happy eating!

The Map

Berikoni Georgian Bakery – My go-to for Guruli, a type of khachapuri that’s shaped like a calzone, stuffed with egg and cheese. The cooked kebabs are quite good as well. 125 Brighton Beach Ave

German Doner Kebab – Excellent Doner kebab. Newish as of this writing, and not well know yet. 224 Brighton Beach Ave

Kashkar Cafe – The legend, the OG for Uyghur food. 1141 Brighton Beach Ave

Ocean View Cafe – A Brighton classic for Russian/Ukrainian. Best Pelmeni in the city. 290 Brighton Beach Ave.

Burchak Pide – Delicious Turkish Pizza by a friendly stuff. 1614 Sheepshead Bay Rd

Laghman Express – Fast/Casual Uzbek. Multiple locations

Lucia Pizza Of Avenue X – My slice go-to in South Brooklyn. 2201 Avenue X

Mtskheta Cafe – My favorite Georgian restaurant these days. We are normally the only none-Georgian there. 2568 86th St

Falafel Tanami – A Celebrated Falafel joint, especially since the NYT discovered it and lines doubled. Note: they are moving to east 19th I believe very soon. 1305 E 17th St

Werkstatt – A versatile Austrian/German like no other in the entire city. 509 Coney Island Ave

Taste of Akko – A newish Israeli hole in the wall dishing out a taste of one of the best food cities in the middle east. 1724 Coney Island Ave

Coszcal De Allende – One of the only authentic Mexicans in South Brooklyn. Or at least unlike the rest of the bunch. Great drinks as well. 7506 3rd Ave.

Xin Fa Bakery – Best egg tarts on the planet. Ok, in Brooklyn. 5617 8th Ave

Kai Feng Fu Dumpling House – Great pocket change dumplings. 4801 8th Ave

Hainan Chicken House – Fantastic Malaysian. 4807 8th Ave

Chuan Tian Xia – Our favorite all around Chinese in Brooklyn’s Chinatown. 5502 7th Ave

La Brasa Peruana – Peruvian Chicken fast food. Part of a monthly takeout routine. 4618 5th Ave.

Tacos El Bronco – Sensational food truck tacos. I prefer over their restaurant on 4th. 860 5th Ave

Red Hook Tavern – One of the best burgers in Brooklyn, if not the entire city. 329 Van Brunt St.

Hometown Bar-B-Que – NYC’s Texas style BBQ Mecca. 454 Van Brunt St

Hoek Pizza – Exceptional Roman style thin pies. 117 Ferris St

Cafe Kestrel – Small elevated New American. Best thing to open in Red Hook since Hometown BBQ. 293 Van Brunt St

Popina – Tiny Italian with a big heart by an experienced chef. 127 Columbia St

Haenyeo – Superb Korean in Park Slope. 239 5th Ave

Bar Bête – French inspired fair by a very capable chef. 263 Smith St

F&F Pizzeria – My favorite slice in North Brooklyn. 459 Court St

Claro – Fancy, ingredient driven Mexican. Former Michelin. 284 3rd Ave

Cotra – An Izakaya that gets better and better. Top 5 in Brooklyn for us as of this writing. 451 Carroll St

Panzerotti Bites – A delicious empanada like Italian snack filled with top notch ingredients. 235 Smith St

Indian Table – Easily my favorite Indian in Brooklyn, maybe the entire city. 234 Court St

Shawarma Mia – Quality lamb and chicken shawarma in a fast food setting. 67 6th Ave

LaRina Pastificio & Vino – Outstanding Italian that flew under the radar for far too long. 387 Myrtle Ave

Nan Xiang Express – A NYC chain now, but you may not find better soup dumplings. 148 Lawrence St

Le Crocodile – Always reliable American/French. 80 Wythe Ave

Taqueria Ramirez – The NYC taco standard with often lines around the block. 94 Franklin St

Lilia – Legendary Italian with legendary pastas. One of the toughest reservations in Brooklyn. 567 Union Ave

The Map

Categories: Brooklyn, New York City | Tags: , , | 2 Comments

LaRina Pastificio & Vino – Life in a Bowl

Sometimes great discoveries come later in life. And I’m not talking about Labubu. In a city where Italian food is an embarrassment of riches, its easy to fall under the radar, especially when you are in Fort Greene, Brooklyn. The last time I dined in Ft Greene was at least 5 years ago at Miss Ada by the Israeli-born Tomer Blechman who since opened Theodora, one of the toughest tables in NYC these days. I’m still trying.

Larina, approaching its 10th year, is much easier to reserve than Theodora. But you wouldnt know it while walking around a very packed house on a Thursday evening, and seeing the slew of people waiting for a table outside, all speaking Italian. Its owned by 3-5 people depending on who you ask. At the helm is “Top Chef” contestant Silvia Barban.

Silvia’s Italian inspirations is hard to pinpoint. She grew up in the north, spent summers in the south, and cooked with some of the best of them, like Giancarlo Perbellini in his two Michelin star in Verona. She was roasting potatoes by age 6 with her grandma, and cooking entire meals by age 10. When I was 6, I was smoking cigarettes and getting into all kinds of trouble, and by the time I turned 10 I was sneaking into country clubs. Not only I cant cook but its a miracle I’m still alive.

Silvia described her signature Smoked Spaghetti as her life in a bowl. Elements from the north, south, and even NYC (the smokiness). But pretty much all of us came out of the meal with a life in a bowl dish. For my butcher friend it was the steak. For another it was the Lasagna. My friend had a Ratatouille moment when she tasted the Intingolo. And for me it was, what else, pasta perfection from Piedmont. The dish rundown…

Prosciutto di Parma with Mozzarella di Bufala – Your typical high end Prosciutto, though I personally prefer San Daniele over Parma. Mozzarella in this case a little less successful.

Octopus – Not sure it can be cooked any better than this. Spot on flavor and texture, nice complimentary sauce made with uncooked tomatoes among other goodies.

Intingolo – Like a chunky Hummus made with green chickpeas, with shishitos and pumpkin seeds. Goes well with their excellent bread basket (first one free). This was the Ratatouille moment for my friend, reminiscing about her grandma making this dish as a child. She dropped her makeup kit when she tasted it.

Rapa Gialla – Yellow beets and peaches covered with smoked stringy Stracchino. Good though got boring after a few bites. More of a side dish.

Smoked spaghetti – Simple ingredients, sensational flavors. She smokes the spaghetti before cooking, and that smokiness comes through very well. The only thing, maybe related to the process, is that it gets cold quickly. So… mangia mangia.

Lasagna – Looks very messy but tastes like an above average Lasagna. Made with spinach pasta sheets.

Agnolotti del Plin – This is it. the creme de la creme. Better than anything we had in NYC (including at high end places like Claud) and even some places in Piedmont. Braised beef and chicken filling, sage, and butter mixed with the meat jus. In Piedmont many places, even the notable, add only butter, some a lot of it. But the jus adds some oomph, as we learned in Turin. I thought I found a good version in San Carlo in West Village a few weeks ago, but this blew it away.

Steak – Expertly cooked base on the small piece I had.

Tried just about all the desserts and they were all great. Usually I can pick a winner but not in this case. Proper Tiramisu, excellent Panna Cotta with Strawberry compote and almonds, and more. Go!

LaRina Pastificio & Vino
387 Myrtle Ave (Ft Greene, Brooklyn)
Recommended Dishes: Octopus, Intingolo, Smoked spaghetti, Lasagna, Agnolotti del Plin

Categories: Brooklyn, New York City | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

Chalong – Smells Like Thai Spirit

Hell’s Kitchen needs another Thai restaurant like I need a stone in my sandals. When that happens, do you try to kick it out for 20 minutes or are you normal? I can just remove my shoes, but I’m so close, and there’s no satisfaction whatsoever if you do it the easy way

But as far as Thai food in Hell’s Kitchen goes, its not really a matter of need. The more the merrier, to keep everyone on their toes. Its an embarrassment of Thai riches. While most visitors pair their Broadway show with the classic pre theatre options east of 9th, those in the know think Thai food on 9th or beyond.

Chalong opened about two years ago by three Thai food veterans. To open a spot so close to Pure Thai Cookhouse and LumLum requires a particular set of tools, Liam Nissan style. And Nate Limwong who worked at Fish Cheeks and Soothr might just have the right tools. She grew up in Surat Thani, somewhere between Bangkok and Malaysia in Southern Thailand, hence bringing a fresh take to the hood.

Thai cuisine in NYC can essentially be categorizes into North, Middle, South, with the middle being most familiar to Americans. Northern cuisine had a nice run about 5-10 years, and now catching up at a slower pace. But New Yorkers generally not too familiar with Southern Thai. Much of the land is close to the sea which is reflected on the menus, but you also got the Southern interpretations of classics like Pad Thai which I wouldnt skip here.

At Chalong, not only the food is outstanding, but the room is comfortable and a bit more chic than some of the usual suspects. My old rule of thumb, go to the uglier looking Thai places in Hell’s Kitchen, is becoming just that, old and stale. The rule might have died when LumLum replaced Pam Real Thai. But in case you miss that oxtail soup, Pam is now cooking in Las Vegas at Mama Pam Real Thai Food.

The food rundown…

Jeeb Pu – Crab, shrimp, and pork dumplings. Essentially Shumai on crack. Get this.

Peek Gai Tod – Fantastic sizzling hot Chicken wings. All small ‘mid’ wings which are the best kind. They can carry more flavor, and usually crispier, as was the case here.

Sator Goog – A fiery combination of ground pork, stinky beans that look like Fava Beans, shrimp and curry paste. Waiter warned that its Thai spicy but it was more like borderline. Needless to say, Mardi Gras in your mouth.

Crab Curry – As good and well balanced as they get. Includes a small crispy soft shell crab for good measure.

Tom Som Pla – Nice southern style Tom Yum soup with Chilean sea bass chunks and Enoki mushrooms of all sizes. I think I enjoyed the Enkoi more than the fish which wasnt bad at all. The rest of the group found it over lemongrassed, but I didn’t mind.

Mee Pum Riang – Southern style Pad Thai with shrimp. One of my friends cant tolerate too much spice so figured we’ll try it. It still had just enough heat, and was actually one of the better dishes. The coconut curry cream really transforms it, in the looks dept as well. Go!

Chalong
749 9th Ave (Hell’s Kitchen)
Recommended Dishes: All of the above

Categories: Midtown West, New York City | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

Blog at WordPress.com.