Not often a restaurant opens by a celebrated chef or group flies under the radar in NYC. Seeing a mostly empty room on a Sunday night was very strange considering this is the latest from Juan Correa and chef Erik Ramirez off the Llama Inn and Llama San fame (granted closed and closing). And especially considering how strong this meal was.
The location has much to do with it. Many see Hudson Yards as up and coming but to me its up and going, especially when it comes to unfamiliar flavors. Momofuku’s Kawi was the most interesting place to ever open in HY, only to close two years later. David Chang revamping his empire had something to do with it, but still. Business lunches and tourists in the area generally opt for something simple like Zou Zou’s (Mediterranean) or Ci Siamo (Italian). Most visitors probably never even heard of Nikkei (Japanese Peruvian).
With that said, Papa San might be the best offering by the Llama Group, and has the potential to become a destination place. A Hannukah miracle if you will, or a destination place is the only hope because “how about Hudson Yards” literally said no one when it comes to choosing a night out in NYC. Its usually the villages and surrounding areas, if not Hell’s Kitchen. Although technically, according to Google Maps at least, Papa San is just inside Hell’s Kitchen.
The food rundown. We mostly ordered from the “Small Plates” section of the menu as that looks like their strength.
Mussels – Almost didn’t order this because it was, well, mussels. Some of the best in years if not decades. Plump, gorgeous mussels in one of those addictive curry sauces with sweet heat from the Aji Amarillo (Peruvian yellow peppers). And comes with a surprise, perfect McDonald’s fries to dip in that sick sauce.
Miso Black Cod – The weakest link is more of a testament to the other dishes. Expertly cooked, delicate Cod on Nori flavored Polenta. Subtle flavors, and while satisfying, forgettable compared to the explosive flavors of the rest. Still I’d order this again.
Eel Pizza – Salty, sweet, nicely balanced with the eel, shitake, pecorino, dancing bonito flakes and tangy sauce. Probably the most hyped dish here, and rightfully so, except that other dishes were equally as good if not better.
Wagyu Tri Tip – Exactly what you expect from a place like this. Perfectly cooked, thinly sliced with a very complimentary Yuzu Bearnaise.
Udon Noodles – Another signature, marketed as a play on Cacio e Pepe. This was just sensational. Complex, deep flavors with sautéed squid adding nice texture. If you like the chew on sautéed squid from say Blue Ribbon Sushi, you’d like this.
Tsukemodo Cucumbers side – refreshing bites to cut all that richness.
Creative drinks, friendly staff, nothing but smiles from the open kitchen (not sure if thats still the case when they are busy). The space is attractive, and the menu fairly priced for Manhattan. Good option this month to pair with the holiday lights at Hudson Yards.
501 W 34th St.
Eating With Ziggy 