If you requested a tour and didnt hear from me, its because the email you put on the form is not correct or isnt working. If you did not hear from me by now, send another request directly to EatingWithZiggy@Gmail.com. This week I got two such requests
Monthly Archives: September 2017
There’s Off the Beaten Path, and then there’s Avenue C. When I first heard of Fiaschetteria Pistoia about 6 months ago, I had to see it to believe it. You hear about places open in Alphabet City, but rarely so far east. Its a good news, bad news situation for residents and the many students who call East Village and Alphabet City their home. It’s great to see businesses open and thrive, but at the same time we may be looking at a rent squeeze. On the bright side, I’m now able to sit outside on Avenue C. Something I wasnt able to do not too long ago during the more violent days of the Alphabet (I’m using Marvel lingo here. As in “we need to defend our [Hell’s] kitchen)
You almost assume that any town just outside of Florence would be sleepy when compared to the tourist mecca nearby. But Pistoia, just west of Florence on the road to Lucca (another gem) is filled with culture and nightlife. And in the middle of that nightlife is Fiaschetteria La Pace, the big brother of Fiaschetteria Pistoia. Fiaschetteria, in the more traditional sense means a small wine bar, more associated with Florence. Back in the day, Tuscan wine was brought in from the vineyards in straw-bottomed bottles called Fiasche and sold in these tiny open wine bars, like street food. A dying breed just like the Lower East Side Jewish delis that once roamed around the area where Pistoia calls home
Pistoia is as far removed from Italian/American as a place can be in NYC. Much of the staff including the cooks, a family and friends affair, from you guessed it, Pistoia. A human pasta machine in full display busy making the Picci, a rarity in NYC because its slightly more labor intensive. Limited but adequate English throughout adds to the charm. Even the wine “menu” may seem strange to some. A basket with 8 house wines, dropped on a table or chair near you to explore and sniff.
There’s only one thing that sings Tuscany more than Picci. Pappa can you hear me?? Pappa al Pomodoro a rustic dish not so easily found in NYC. Mainly because tomato mush (“Pappa”) with stale saltless Tuscan bread doesn’t usually scream fine dining. But this is indeed a good one. Many may also bulk at the idea of Picci served Cacio e Pepe style. But in south Tuscany this kind of Roman influence is common, and Picci got a bit more of a bite. And yes, you even have a Cinghiale (wild boar) sighting here. Here it is served with Maccheroni, a pasta that is a little more generic than I’m usually led to believe. I was expecting tube shape, but got flat noodles that you can use to make little tacos with that meat
In Pistoia, Maccheroni Sull’Anatra (slowly cooked duck ragu) is usually served on an annual July festival. In Alphabet city I can get it any day now. This regular (I’m told) special became my favorite pasta here after three visits. On the last visit, I also enjoyed Crostone Fagiolino, another Pistoia specialty of bread topped with cooked prosciutto, chicken liver and Mushrooms. Eating this requires a little work, but it pays off overtime. Standards like Prosciutto and Tiramisu are top notch here. Tiramisu is so good in fact that I havent tried any other desserts here.
647 E 11th (Off C), East Village
Rating: Two Z’s (out of 4)
Stars range from Good to Exceptional. Simple as that
Recommended Dishes: Any of the Prosciuttos, Pappa al Pomodoro, Crostone Fagiolino, Maccheroni Sull’Anatra, Picci Cacio e peppe, Tiramisu
I dont usually update a place this soon, but this is kinda important after yet another fine meal at Ivan Ramen LES. Weather is getting chillier (or seemed to be a few weeks ago at least), and I cant think of a better way to start Ramen season. The Chicken Paitan at Ivan is not the Ramen dish that made Ivan famous, but to me it’s right up there with NYC’s best at the moment. As I described 6 months ago when it came out, “the richness and deliciousness of a Tonkotsu without the heaviness”.
A corn on a cob dish always gets my attention, and this one proved to be a wowzer. Its Miso roasted with bonito flakes and some sort of Japanese magic dust sprinkled. The fried chicken, brined perhaps, is another exceptional one. The Coney Island Tofu with that miso mushroom chili has made it’s triumphant return to the menu. Magnifique as always. As is the Triple pork, triple garlic Mazemen (brothless ramen) which has been on the menu since day 1 but somehow eluded me all this time. Being featured on Netflix’s Chef’s Table hasnt made it easy, but reservations are doable. Go!
Its easy to overlook the capital once you look at the rest of Croatia, but you need to fly home from somewhere. Two nights, one full day is a good amount of time to see the sights, most of which from a compact center. By this stage of the trip, food research fatigue took over. But we still managed to sneak in a good final meal
The main cathedral is striking as expected. As was St Mark’s church and its unique tiled roof. The Museum of Broken Relationship was intriguing but I got bored quickly. Fortunately Mrs Ziggy was as well, so no museum donations were in store for us! I did spend more time in the Dolac market than I’d like to admit. Those European markets just never cease to amaze.
We didnt think we’ll have the time for Mirogoj Cemetery, but we managed. It turned out to be the highlight, especially once I found Drazen Petrovic’s grave (that was a tough one). But the most moving moment came from the scene at Stone Gate. Back in the day a painting of Virgin Mary with baby Jesus survived a devastating fire and major damage to the gate. So an odd looking shrine build inside the gate, where many locals go to pray and light candles.
The best and only meal worthy of mention came from a place called Kod Pere, which happened to be right next door to our apartment (Feels Like Home Apartments). The environment is that of a comfortable, seemingly popular, regular restaurant. But there’s nothing regular about its menu (according to locals). You essentially eat traditional specialties grandma and her family assistants are cooking that day. The Last of this kind I’m told. Everything was done with care and quite delicious, especially the crepes for dessert.
The burning question. In the midst of all that madness, what exactly should I look for in this Zombie infested former Nabisco factory. I added a couple of names for 2017 without feeling the need to change anything else. This is just mostly a fresh reminder since I’m constantly being asked by people. What should I target in Chelsea Market…
Our thoughts are with Provo and the rest of the Turks and Caicos islands today.
I’ve never watched the weather channel before today. I didnt even know what channel it is. Today we are watching it nonstop and I’m just sick to my stomach. Hang in there everyone, and stay safe.
This month on Hell’s Kitchen’s unofficial official magazine W42st, the theme is… ok, I dont really remember. I’m pretty sure the theme is not quickies, but sounds like it should be one of these days. I try, but sometimes I just cant match the Eatlists with the theme. If for example the theme is The Kardashians (it could happen), I would have a hard time coming up with related recommendations, other than maybe Casellula, home of the pig’s ass sandwich.
The list this time is snacks. And the good news this month is that I dont have to copy and paste the Eatlist anymore. You can just read them here. Or pick up a copy at your favorite Hell’s Kitchen barber, restaurant, and tarot card dealer.
And you can see the rest of the Eatlists here. Just ignore the pussy…